Wednesday, July 23, 2014

S. Betzina V1101 Sew Along Part 4 ( Shoulders and Neckline )

Next step is to join the shoulder seams and the neckline seams on the tunic and the tunic facings.   

For Tunic  With right sides together and using twill tape or ,as I did, the selvedge of a light fabric to stabilize the seam, sew  a 5/8" seam. Press open or  toward the back.  Note:I put the tape on the back side.

For Facings The side on which you drew the lines is the right side. Join the shoulder seams . No stabilizer this time. Pres open the seam.

You are now going to join the tunic and facing together at the neckline only. The armholes will be joined using a bias band of your fabric much later.. Mark you 5/8" seam allowance all the way around the neckline on one side (either facing or garment side). Pay particular attention to the corners where the small circles were on the pattern piece.

 Again you must stabilize the neckline using a light weight selvedge or twill tape. On the tunic side  (or side not marked with the stitching line because you don't want to cover up your stitching line), pin the stabilizer all the way around the neckline.over the stitching line.


Sew the neckline seam following the line you drew, being very careful to honour the 5/8" seam allowance. Clip at corners to but not through  the stitching.

Trim your seam to 1/4" but leaving the tunic side slightly wider than the facing side. To do this, cut from the facing side and hold your scissors at an angle leaning toward the facing.

Press the seam allowance toward the facing side

From the right side of the garment , understitch on the facing side . ( Click on understitch for a review if you don't remember how)

Press neckline seam which will want to favour the facing side because of the understitching.

At shoulder joint, if you have bulk, pound with a hammer gently to flatten out the seam.

Top stitch around the neckline if you wish but I chose not to.

Next time, I'll show you how to prepare for the sewing of the lines for chenilling.


  1. Diana, you take the best photos for your tutorials. Thank you! I should have followed your instruction about marking a corner today. I thought I could "wing it" but I can see how the result would have been better with marking.

    1. Sandra, I haven't always marked corners etc. before I sewed but I do get such better results now that I take the time to draw the seam lines, corners, etc.

  2. I'm a little confused. You say pot the neckline twill tape on the right side of the fabric but it appears to be on the wrong side. I've been wanting to improve my results by using stabilizers rather than just stay stitching so I would appreciate clarification.

  3. So sorry Nancy. I reread what I wrote and realized it wasn't clear. Since I had marked my sewing line on the lining (or facing) side I didn't want to cover it up with my stabilizer so I pinned it to the dress side and sewed from the lining side. Thank you for pointing this out to me.

  4. This is a really great tutorial, I appreciate the detail you put into the instructions! I am just learning how to sew and have only done a few projects, so I'm just using this as practice. I have been wanting to take some sewing lessons, do you think those would help me get better?