Saturday, July 19, 2014

S, Betzina ( V1101 ) Sew-Along Session 3

Pocket Facings and Pockets

The very first thing you sew on this dress is the pocket facings. I omitted the zipper closures on the pocket welt openings. Refer to the instruction sheet if you are using zippers.

...With your tracing wheel and tracing paper, trace the welt  opening onto the fabric facings. You will already have traced the welt openings on wrong side of the tunic  front.

...With contrasting thread in your bobbin, stay stitch around the welt openings being sure to start on one of the long sides well below the corner. When sewing around the corners, with needle down pivot, and count the number of stitches you sew on the first end and copy that for the other end.

...Pin the pocket facings to pocket interfacing with right sides together  ... (The glue side of the interfacing is the wrong side )

...Sew around the two long sides and the rounded end of the facings but not the notched end.

...Turn to right sides and press carefully so that the glue side adheres to the fabric side of the facings. The facings now have a nice neat finish. Apply Steam-a-Seam around the edges of the facings. Leave the paper on.

...Position the facings to the outside of the front matching the notch on the facings to the notch on each side front.( Sorry, I forgot to take a photo )

...Pin carefully aligning the welt opening of the facings to the welt opening of the dress front.

...Sew around the welt opening from the wrong side of the tunic front being sure to start on one of the long sides and at the  corners, with needle down pivot, and count the number of stitches you sew on the first end and copy that for the other end.

With sharp scissors, cut through all thicknesses of the welt opening , leaving long V's when cutting to but not through each corner.

Turn facings to inside of tunic front and press carefully. Remove paper from Steam-a-Seam  and press to hold  the facings in place.

...From the right side,topstitch 1/4" from the opening and then run a second line of stitching 1/4" away.

You are now ready to add the pockets.

...First finish the edges  (except the notched edge ) with a Hong Kong finish.

...Apply Steam-a-Seam around the pocket edges.

...Position the pocket on the wrong side of the front  so the notch on the pocket side aligns with the notch on the side of the tunic front. (I accidentally cut size small for the pocket but C for the dress so my notches didn't match up. ) Be sure that everything is nice and flat. Press in place.

...If you get a nice stitch on the bobbin side,  stitch the pocket from the wrong side. If you don't ,hand baste the pocket in place with a contrasting thread and stitch from the right side. Otherwise from the wrong side of the tunic, top stitch around the pocket.
Sew a second row of top stitching 1/4" to the inside of the first row.

And that's it. You are ready for the next step which I'll post soon.

Good luck and Happy Sewing from



  1. I love the Hong Kong finish on the pocket facings. Excellent tutorial, as usual!

  2. Thank you Donna. I know yours will be just as pretty.

  3. I've been lurking on your blog for a while now and I just wanted to say thanks for these tutorials. The pictures and explanations are the best I've found online. Despite all the sewing I've done, I still enjoy looking through a tutorial before beginning something new. Thanks for posting!
    Jenn |

  4. Thank you, Diana. Great tutorial.