Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Lesson 4 Narrow shoulder Adjustment

This week's lesson was a simple one and an easy adjustment needed by many people because pattern companies  seem to think we all have wide shoulders.

Lesson 4...Narrow Shoulders Adjustment

Measure the back bodice pattern piece from center back to just inside the seam allowance at the shoulder. Double this number. This gives you the shoulder width of the garment you are going to make.
Compare the number to your own shoulder width.  The difference divided by two is what you will decrease the pattern  shoulder by.  

Step 1...You will do this to both the front and back bodice pieces.
             Draw a line parallel to the grain line from mid shoulder to about half way down the                          armscye (armhole). Draw a second line at right angle to this one to the armscye (armhole).

Step 2... Measure from the first line the amount you are decreasing by and draw a line as in the                    photo below.

Step 3...Cut out the  piece formed by the first two lines   (I forgot to label the lines ) and lay it                     along the third line.

Step 4... Slip some paper under the pattern. With your French Curve  (or a bowl would work ),                     smooth armscye.

 You can see that you gain a little in the upper part and lose a little in the lower part . That will not affect the fit of the sleeve which you do not have to alter at all.

For Wide Shoulder Adjustment, you would reverse this process.

Demonstration: Inserting a zipper

I'm only showing a regular zipper and not the invisible zipper at this time.

A.For a center applied zipper;

1. Cut two strips of fusible interfacing 1" wide and 1"longer than the length of your zipper. Fuse to the seam allowance

2. Sew the seam using  basting stitches to the the end of the zipper placement notch  and changing to a regular stitch to complete the rest of the seam. Press the seam open

3. Either pin or using Wonder Tape which is a wash away, thus temporary, fusible tape, and with the zipper face down, affix the zipper exactly over the "ditch" of the seam.The top of the zipper should be just below the neckline seam.

                                       NOTE: I cut off about 1/4" of the zipper tape because I don't like to enclose it in the neckline seam as it is too bulky.)


4.  Without opening the seam, and using a zipper foot, sew  as close to the zipper teeth as you can .   You will have to move the zipper head out of the way so the seam will have to be open at that     spot. (Be sure to leave the needle down) .Then move it back  again and continue to the bottom, sew across the bottom and sew the other side the same way as the first.

Your finished zipper will look like this. Well I didn't press or open the top of the seam but you get the idea.

This method is used mostly at the center back seam of dresses or skirts.

Next week, I'll show the  lapped zipper method.
I hope this was useful to someone!