Lesson 4...Narrow Shoulders Adjustment
Measure the back bodice pattern piece from center back to just inside the seam allowance at the shoulder. Double this number. This gives you the shoulder width of the garment you are going to make.
Compare the number to your own shoulder width. The difference divided by two is what you will decrease the pattern shoulder by.
Step 1...You will do this to both the front and back bodice pieces.
Draw a line parallel to the grain line from mid shoulder to about half way down the armscye (armhole). Draw a second line at right angle to this one to the armscye (armhole).
Step 2... Measure from the first line the amount you are decreasing by and draw a line as in the photo below.
Step 3...Cut out the piece formed by the first two lines (I forgot to label the lines ) and lay it along the third line.
Step 4... Slip some paper under the pattern. With your French Curve (or a bowl would work ), smooth armscye.
You can see that you gain a little in the upper part and lose a little in the lower part . That will not affect the fit of the sleeve which you do not have to alter at all.
Demonstration: Inserting a zipper
I'm only showing a regular zipper and not the invisible zipper at this time.
A.For a center applied zipper;
1. Cut two strips of fusible interfacing 1" wide and 1"longer than the length of your zipper. Fuse to the seam allowance
2. Sew the seam using basting stitches to the the end of the zipper placement notch and changing to a regular stitch to complete the rest of the seam. Press the seam open
This method is used mostly at the center back seam of dresses or skirts.
Next week, I'll show the lapped zipper method.
I hope this was useful to someone!