Monday, May 12, 2014

Sewing Class...Session 2, Lesson 1

I'm starting the second term of sewing lessons and I thought I'd record the individual lessons here so my students could access them to review what was covered each night. As it happens , all my ladies need to make a Full Bust Adjustment on their garments. I decided , this was a good place to start!

Class #1 (May 7, 2014 )

Lesson...Full Bust Adjustment and Adding a Bust Dart

Step 1... Locate bust point by measuring from shoulder seam at neck to center of bust
              (nipple). Draw a small circle  (A) on bodice front pattern to represent your measurement.

Step 2... .Draw a line from bottom of bodice front parallel to center front line to the bust point. (AB)
               Draw a line from bust point to the notch on the armscye (armhole). (AC)
               Draw a third line from bust point to the bodice side about 3 or 4 inches below under arm. (AD)

Step 3... Cut along the first line to the bust point and from the bust point to but not through the armscye.
              Spread the pattern 1/2 inch for each cup size above a B cup at the bust point. Ex...for a D cup ,you  would spread 1 inch.

Step 4... Slip some paper under the pattern. Cut along the other line drawn (AD) from bust point to bodice side.  Cut to but not through the bust point .
              Straighten the side of the pattern so it is once again parallel to the bodice center front .This will open the bust dart.{ Notice that the bottom is now uneven. Slip paper under and extend the lower  center front. This will give you more room  and your garment will no longer hike up at center front.}

Step 5...At the side measure the width of the dart and mark the midpoint. Draw a line from this midpoint to the bust point.
             On this line measure about 1.5 to 2 inches back from the bust point . Draw a line from this point to  each side of the dart  on the bodice side .These lines are the dart legs.

Step 6.. Tape everything in place.Carefully fold the dart closed and lay it downward on the bodice side Draw a smooth line and cut away any excess from the side edge.Now open  dart, lay flat  and you should  see a little shape jutting out  from the side.

           You are finished and your bodice pattern piece should now accommodate the size of your  bust!

Demonstration...The Hong Kong Seam Finish

Click here for the instructions for this beautiful way to finish the inside of an unlined garment.

 Here are a few examples.

Next week, we'll cover the Full Bust Adjustment  for a bodice that already has a bust dart.
I'll  also demonstrate the Stitch in the Ditch technique.

I hope this is useful to others as well as Karen , Dorothy and Donna.

As always, more later from


  1. Your students are lucky to have someone with so much experience as an instructor!

  2. I'm so glad you're adding these to your blog. Thank you!

  3. perfect timing for a polonaise project I'm working on (Mantua Maker)... cut out in the test fabric to find everything fitted except the bust... smg.x

  4. I am one of the lucky ladies to be taught by Diana, and I can't tell you how much I enjoy these classes. It is great to review the lessons by having these visuals and step by step directions available. Thanks, Diana!

    1. Aw! Thank you Donna. .it's nice to be appreciated but you know I love doing it!