tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-53187711207165885212024-03-12T17:26:35.548-07:00Diana's Sewing LessonsIn this blog ...
* I want to teach someone who wants to learn to sew but has no one to show them how.
* I want to instill in someone the love of sewing
* I want to teach them to want to go that extra step to achieve a garment that is special and professional looking.Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.comBlogger85125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-1761257934889680422017-07-04T15:58:00.000-07:002017-07-04T15:58:02.110-07:00Diana's Top<b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="color: red;"><i>I'm posting this as a back up for my Sewing Group to refer to if they want to make one of theses tops out of class.</i></span><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Directions For Diana's Top </span></b><br />
<b><br /></b><b>About cutting out your top</b><br />
<b><br /></b><b><i><span style="color: blue;">*** Lay your fabric on cutting surface by folding it right sides together with selvedge of each side together as well. It's very important that the folded edge be smooth. You'll have to work and refold the fabric until you get a smooth fold. You may have to cut off your selvedges to make this happen.Don't worry if the selvedge end is not exactly together.</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></i></b><b><i><span style="color: blue;">*** Lay your pattern on the fabric. Don't forget to measure the distance between the </span>STRAIGHT OF GRAIN AND THE FOLDED EDGE AT SEVERAL SPOTS TO MAKE SURE YOUR PATTERN IS LAYING STRAIGHT.</i></b><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;">***<b><i>Use weights rather than pins to make your job much easier.</i></b></span></span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span><span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><b><i>*** Check your stitch length. It should be at least 2.5 or 3 because you are sewing on knit fabric.</i></b></span></span><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><b><i><span style="color: red;">DIRECTIONS:</span></i></b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><b><i><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></i></b></span><b><i><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><span style="color: red;">Step 1...</span> Cut out the top being careful not to let the fabric move out of place. Cut little snips at the dots along the pleat area. mark where the fold for the pleat is.</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;">Take away the pattern but don't move the top.</span></i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">Step 2... </span>Pin the lower half of the two layers together from just below the armhole to the hem.</i></b><br />
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<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Step 3...</span> Fold back the top layer of the upper half. Lay the FRONT NECKLINE TEMPLATE on the neckline of the bottom layer matching the notches at center neckline.. Cut out front neckline.</i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">Step 4...</span> Pin front and back shoulder seams together .</i></b><br />
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<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Step 5... </span>Sew shoulder seams using a 1/2" seam allowance. ( DO NOT SEW THE SLEEVE OPENINGS TOGETHER ! ASK RUTH AND ALEXA WHY !?!? )</i></b><br />
<b><i> Serge finish the shoulder seam and neckline.</i></b><br />
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<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><span style="color: red;">Step 6... </span>On both sides,Sew side seams as far as point <span style="color: red;">A . D</span><span style="color: red;">on't forget to back stitch for this and the next two seams.</span></i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></i></b><b><i>Sew from <span style="color: red;">A to B</span></i></b><b><i></i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></i></b><b><i><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></i></b><b><i>Sew from<span style="color: red;"> B to C.</span></i></b><br />
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<i><b> Serge side seams but only to point<span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"> <span style="color: red;">A.</span></span></b></i><br />
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<b><span style="color: red; font-style: italic;">Step 8... </span><i>To form pleats, </i><span style="color: blue; font-style: italic;">WITH THE WRONG SIDE OF YOUR TOP FACING YOU</span><i>, fold pleat at fold line and bring point (A) to second snip. Sew the pleat in place following original seam line. Do this for all four pleats.</i></b><br />
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<b>THE HARD PART IS DONE. TAKE A BREAK!</b></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 9... </span>Finish neckline by either folding neck edge 1/4 " and top stitching or you can use Steam-a Seam.</b></div>
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<b>To hem sleeves and bottom of top, first apply Steam-a-Seam to stabilize the hem area.</b></div>
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<b>Sew hems using either a twin needle or a straight stitch.</b></div>
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<b><span style="color: blue;">That's it. You're finished. I hope you like what you made and that you had fun making it !!</span></b></div>
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-8745706971497845892017-01-22T10:30:00.003-08:002017-01-22T10:30:44.325-08:00The Four (or Five ) Way WrapI know it's been a very long time since I posted here but I think you're going to love this little tutorial.<br />
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If you go <a href="http://sewpassionista.blogspot.ca/2017/01/sewing-for-good-cause.html">here to Sew Passionista</a>, you'll find many photos of this amazing little workhorse of a garment and hopefully get inspired to try one. You will need less than an hour to sew this wrap and will wear it constantly, I promise. So here is one example<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXEEER15Z-dy8xSWmqJJ9jFGSL6ZrlqAh_Aq48MVWlh9L2ZQwK7SfJOd0LZiaOkUAYh6POUyJ7qFQAz5vC2fOIE4dXhkeUoKlnmLi-VEK3pxoDRLQ9yNQ9TktC_JCYdb6EGbKvHUlxyXN/s1600/110_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXEEER15Z-dy8xSWmqJJ9jFGSL6ZrlqAh_Aq48MVWlh9L2ZQwK7SfJOd0LZiaOkUAYh6POUyJ7qFQAz5vC2fOIE4dXhkeUoKlnmLi-VEK3pxoDRLQ9yNQ9TktC_JCYdb6EGbKvHUlxyXN/s640/110_2.jpg" width="496" /></a><br />
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Instructions:<br />
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Fabric.... Amount : 20" to 25" of at least 60" (150 cms. ) wide <br />
Type : a drapey fabric , preferably a knit but wovens will work if they are light weight <br />
such as georgette. Knits can include sweater , crochet, jersey, ponte, mesh, lace, <br />
boucle, etc.<br />
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METHOD.... (You may find the chart I've includeD helpful )<br />
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Before you begin, take a look at your selvedges and decide if you like them. They can become a finished edge. Other wise , if you have a serger, prefinish all edges before starting to sew your wrap together.<br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">1... Fold your fabric with right sides together </span></b><b><span style="color: red;">selvedge</span></b><b><span style="color: red;"> to </span></b><b><span style="color: red;">selvedge</span></b><b><span style="color: red;">. </span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"> 2...Place a pin 15" from fold .This is your neck opening. Sew from pin to the </span></b><b><span style="color: red;">selvedge</span></b><b><span style="color: red;">.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"> 3...If desired, fold neckline seam allowance and top stitch. .</span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: red;"> You could leave this seam as a serged edge if you want.</span></b><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;"> 4. Press your seam and you're finished ! </span></b><br />
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This is a chart I made to use for my Sewing Group. I hope it will make the instructions more clear.<br />
Excuse the photography.<br />
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OPTIONAL:. Add buttons down the seam or an exposed zipper for a funky design detail<br />
Finish hems with bias binding to add some oomph to your wrap.<br />
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Fringe the hem or sew on a fringe for a really cool finish.<br />
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Come up with your own idea for a unique wrap .<br />
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I hope you'll try this great little topper. It's a lot of fun to wear and adds pizazz to any outfit.<br />
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Until next time from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-14215682520438326092016-08-21T11:31:00.002-07:002016-08-21T11:31:43.016-07:00A bright Yellow Surefit Designs Top<br />
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I'm really interested in rotating darts at the moment and have been practicing by making simple tops. For the one I'm showing today , I opened up my DD bust dart in both the shoulder and center front areas. It's a simple process if you have the patience to make a copy of a pattern and to work methodically. There's quite a bit of cutting ,spreading, and taping involved. For more details if you want them, go here to Diana's Sewing Lessons.<br />
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For my top, I redrew my Surefit Designs sloper in a smaller size by going down a dot. <i><b>With SFD, you use the bust dart size you need ( in my case a DD ) so there is no need for a Full Bust Adjustment but you make all your other adjustments, e.g. Rounded Upper back, and Sway back</b></i>. I've found that there is no need for Narrow Shoulder adjustment and I only need a minimal Sloped Shoulder adjustment for this system.<br />
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Here is what my pattern front looks like before and after rotating the dart. For the designed top I lowered the neckline 5/8".<br />
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I added about 1 1/2 " to the width of the shoulder in addition to the spread where I opened the bust dart so I had to add the same to the back shoulder.<b><i> I shirred the front to fit the new back shoulder</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><br /></i></b> To know how much to gather the center front, measure the CF seam from neckline to hem before you open the dart. Once opened, the CF will spread. Gather the area where you spliced and spread until the center front seams are equal to the original measurement. (I hope that makes sense ! ) I should also say that you don't need as many slices as I made Probably one would be sufficient at the CF bust line.<br />
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I also moved half the waist darts in both front and back to the side seam instead of sewing a half dart. I wanted a slightly fitted silhouette. To do this, I traced the waist dart ,cut it in half lengthwise, then lay it on the side seams and trimmed that amount from both front and back.<br />
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Before I started my top , I used Sally Silhouette to design a top I thought would go well with <a href="http://sewpassionista.blogspot.ca/2015/07/v1452-sandra-betzina-outfit.html">last summer's fun palazzo </a>pant. I gave the Sandra Betzina top to my DGD because it was too fitted for my taste.<br />
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I curved the CF seam at the bottom by using my Design Stylus.<br />
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I turned the hem under 5/8" in the front but for the back, I sewed a 1 1/2 " facing because I cut it a little too short<br />
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This photo is a little pale but it shows the shirring at the shoulders and CF where I opened the bust dart.<br />
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The back is just plain.<br />
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Here's an "action " shot taken at our Family get-together which we hosted.<br />
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Now as for the topper, this is what I planned to do.<br />
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I changed my mind when I started to draft the pattern and I don't love the result. I drew a complete front ( both sides ) and drew a line from the neckline to the opposite lower side. <br />
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The polyester lace is not drapey enough and is a little too thick to tie at the waist nicely but this is what I did to the front bodice. pattern. I lowered the neckline in both front and back about an inch and that was a bit too much for the back neck.<br />
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Here is the " cardi"with this remodeled 10 year old dress that use to look like<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sewpassionista/2751765022/in/album-72157606656125324/"> this .</a><br />
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This bright yellow top goes with a lot of my bottoms , especially this Rachel Comey skirt made for my trip to Paris last September,<br />
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and of course my wild and crazy palazzos. ( I admit the pics are quite washed out. I didn't pay attention to the settings !!)<br />
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I'm using my SFD sloper to check the fit of all the patterns I'm sewing up. It's a great fitting tool. For example I used it to check the fit on the pattern I used to make my reunion dress which I blogged <a href="http://sewpassionista.blogspot.ca/2016/07/my-reunion-dinnerdance-dress-v.html">here</a> I was able to determine that I needed only a slight FBA and that I needed to narrow the shoulders a bit, etc.<br />
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If you're like me and are determined to make your clothes fit as well as possible, do give <a href="http://www.sfdlearningcenter.com/index.html">Surefit Designs</a> a try. It isn't at all hard to use and it's a lot of fun to learn something new ,in my experience<br />
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Happy sewing from<br />
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<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-938480918179752282016-06-19T11:28:00.002-07:002016-06-19T11:28:50.250-07:00One Layer Side Seam PocketThe pockets on this coat made using Sandra Betzina's pattern, <a href="https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1494">V1494</a> are my favorite version of side seam pockets.<br />
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I prefer these because you end up with only one layer of pocket and they are less bulky than traditional pockets.<br />
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. Whenever possible ,I like to substitute the method I'll show you here learned from Sandra years ago when I made<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/sewpassionista/albums/72157607116703313"> this coat using this pattern.</a><br />
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For this method, You'll use the same markings for the side pockets of the pattern you are using.<br />
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The shape of the pocket is up to you. In the coat above ,the pocket is quite large and the shape is angular. For the red coat, I used an enlarged version of the pocket included in the V1474 but I only cut one pocket piece for each side of the coat.<br />
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You'll also need to cut the pocket in fusible interfacing. Again, I cut mine slightly larger than my pocket piece for extra stabilizing (if that makes sense ).<br />
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The pocket will of course be sewn to the inside of the front of the coat but first attached to the back side seam. So here goes.<br />
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<b style="color: red;">Step 1</b><span style="color: red;"> <span style="background-color: white;"> . . Iron the interfacing in place.</span></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: white;"> is to iron on the interfacing to the pocket area on the inside front of the garment</span>.</span><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 2 </span></b> (sorry no pic) is to run a little line of stitching across the circle marking which indicate the pocket opening on the side seam and then to clip to the circle and press the opening to the inside and top stitch like this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeJHc31jXJUjYgQp0DLCakT0usloV4yQijhfem4Vt51hKrpFseiSiRb0fdR3ivXwI18ZKT77y2UoPttdtv2M-LpTVkFnWSVK66m9qAhzChgNDyo-Y1Vi-4Yhb-TdKqYQnDpNbEgp1mPw/s1600-h/Sept.2008+015.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_6Fh5a4tP7rTAZkq360edxaGECZfiQEM0WrMlxVHnkzteuaYOwOp86h4GOY1r-Au89CHcWr99QZKzopBAySRi45HCVC4enc7vITpec-WL4kJzvFXelrK0cwhtFtRkWbzhi3mrlEWe43Y/s1600-h/Sept.2008+037.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="color: white;"><br /></span>
I chose to finish the opening edge with a bias piece of my lining fabric, but you could finish it with a serger or by folding in the seam allowance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fDsTpHu1L9gusiYo59o0nrZhhFqiqXTtgM4g7oJ6jcR3xWv7VzRuv-3_7okI4EbGGHLd6zXRAE2OsSkFMzXmHHKrvHg1MGTZ9n5E9YmEykivrsHrpvz5k4hCG34OT-EbWje-z4pqNGnl/s1600/DSC07005.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fDsTpHu1L9gusiYo59o0nrZhhFqiqXTtgM4g7oJ6jcR3xWv7VzRuv-3_7okI4EbGGHLd6zXRAE2OsSkFMzXmHHKrvHg1MGTZ9n5E9YmEykivrsHrpvz5k4hCG34OT-EbWje-z4pqNGnl/s320/DSC07005.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 3..</span></b>. Sew the pocket to the side seam of the back of the coat starting and finishing at the notches that mark the pocket placement on the side seam. Because I cut my pockets with a lighter linen in a different shade of red, I added a strip of the coat fabric to the edge of the pocket but this step is unnecessary.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OtZIp8VFixzYe2omRq-XhZpRJXLbQ-W8dc1Tz9R5F1amfMfUbc7QyunX6WoHskz2XDJwSKbz-fdAUXBch_6jP5tXJIPbQksXky7J95L-FlGC72MyTRRkDg39ukP4R6Rk24Q3rmrWYhaI/s1600/DSC07004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3OtZIp8VFixzYe2omRq-XhZpRJXLbQ-W8dc1Tz9R5F1amfMfUbc7QyunX6WoHskz2XDJwSKbz-fdAUXBch_6jP5tXJIPbQksXky7J95L-FlGC72MyTRRkDg39ukP4R6Rk24Q3rmrWYhaI/s320/DSC07004.JPG" width="213" /></a><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 4.</span></b>.. You can finish your pocket edges any way you chose. I serged mine but for an unlined garment I would do a Hong Kong finish..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeJHc31jXJUjYgQp0DLCakT0usloV4yQijhfem4Vt51hKrpFseiSiRb0fdR3ivXwI18ZKT77y2UoPttdtv2M-LpTVkFnWSVK66m9qAhzChgNDyo-Y1Vi-4Yhb-TdKqYQnDpNbEgp1mPw/s1600-h/Sept.2008+015.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipeJHc31jXJUjYgQp0DLCakT0usloV4yQijhfem4Vt51hKrpFseiSiRb0fdR3ivXwI18ZKT77y2UoPttdtv2M-LpTVkFnWSVK66m9qAhzChgNDyo-Y1Vi-4Yhb-TdKqYQnDpNbEgp1mPw/s1600-h/Sept.2008+015.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a></div>
<b><span style="color: red;">Step 5</span></b>...You're ready to sew your pocket to the inside front but it will be a lot easier with the help of Steam-a-Seam. Just be sure to apply it to the side of the pocket that will be against the coat ( ask me why I mention this !) Press in place.<br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 6</span></b>...Change your bobbin thread to a contrasting colour and run a line of basting stitches along the edge of each pocket.<br />
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When you turn to the right side you will have a thread tracing to follow when you top stitch.</div>
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Note:To top stitch, whenever possible, I like to use a heavy duty thread by Gutterman but when that's not possible, I'll use two spools threaded through the same needle for similar results.<br />
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And that's all there is to it. I do hope this is clear but if you have any questions, please let me know in the comments section.<br />
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You never know when I'll post again on this blog so if you're interested in what I have to teach, come back again sometime.<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-52600398735549335812016-01-09T18:00:00.003-08:002016-01-09T18:00:50.172-08:00How to Make a Reading ShawlI posted a few gifts I made for Christmas on my other blog SewPassionista by DIANA and was asked for tutorials on the reading shawl, the hair towel and the mug wrap . I'll do each in an individual post so check back a little later for the other two.<br />
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Here is the reading shawl.The idea is to keep your shoulders and arms warm while reading in be.<br />
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For the reading shawl, you'll need:<br />
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About 24"to 30" of 60" wide fleece or sweater knit.( In the one pictured above , I used 30" and was able to fold the upper edge into a collar ).<br />
1 meter or yard of 1/2" wide elastic (optional )<br />
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The pattern I drafted looks like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNuVHmdqd_roZ-bdBhzzSjnTiFrvqRdhTIlsUz40sPSLAQaFP2OrxIrMepieU2ool8Yktrb6jaMad1EH_FumqG1CiSc5U7vSKPOyJVm14cHoULJ74ZjhNtSktTzDsMe7RUhjlYKk_3FOV/s1600/DSC06666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNuVHmdqd_roZ-bdBhzzSjnTiFrvqRdhTIlsUz40sPSLAQaFP2OrxIrMepieU2ool8Yktrb6jaMad1EH_FumqG1CiSc5U7vSKPOyJVm14cHoULJ74ZjhNtSktTzDsMe7RUhjlYKk_3FOV/s640/DSC06666.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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It was hard to photograph and give the right perspective of it so I made a drawing which will give you a better idea with measurements included..<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04mIIJ4wnbcrsmnoKBfKgazhQUbDpD9YWdL0DVVKD6EEBjIyxAahjsNJ3ue5F7ekfY1-yIoDGx66vCUEYOUdYDX1_qysplvtEEhV8147JcTgqp_qOnzH6pVdr8NaIAePOSJSXKbnwKviB/s1600/DSC06670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04mIIJ4wnbcrsmnoKBfKgazhQUbDpD9YWdL0DVVKD6EEBjIyxAahjsNJ3ue5F7ekfY1-yIoDGx66vCUEYOUdYDX1_qysplvtEEhV8147JcTgqp_qOnzH6pVdr8NaIAePOSJSXKbnwKviB/s640/DSC06670.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see, one length is placed on the fold for about 30" and then tapers out to the sides.<br />
The opposite length is the opening and also tapers out to the sides.These tapered ends form the sleeves.<br />
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Sew along the dotted lines to form the sleeves.<br />
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There are two ways to form the cuff. In the picture above I took several tucks on the inside of the sleeves to fit around the wrist.I used the selvedge for the edge of the cuff.<br />
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<img height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkHz9DHASsjDlALZBJCPxeogJ1QrRQAjb2brkPPKgrJbRRdkGrRIuZJOZiAFaNfrmtelg8d5-RilL8AhDVV0loP7394HLTu-P2nvy4kULomBPp6RjyrK3ZBBOO8fwFRkg2dlCmGSNUft8/s640/DSC06543.JPG" width="640" /><br />
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Finish the edges of the lengthwise openings with a 5/8" seam. Add elastic to one long edge of the opening, if desired ,so the shawl will snug up against the neck. (I did not use elastic in the first shawl above ) In the above version, the upper edge formed a shawl collar ,which is pretty, I think<br />
In the picture below I used elastic for both the cuffs and the upper edge.<br />
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I hope this makes sense and that you'll try one of these. I use mine every night in bed to read during the cold months and I just couldn't be without it. It is also useful when on the computer or watching TV.<br />
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I gave one to my sister-in-law for Christmas , along with a book and a gift certificate to Chapters. She loved it!<br />
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Next up I'll show you how to make a mug caddy which will be especially useful in your sewing rooms for all tose bits and pieces or on your dressers for keeping make-up and brushes organized and at your fingertips.!</div>
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-11927862667107438872016-01-09T17:55:00.002-08:002016-01-09T17:57:20.848-08:00How to Make a Mug CaddyI decided to give this little item the name of mug caddy for lack of a better term but it can also be used for tin cans, mason jars or some other such thing.<br />
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Here is the pic of the one I made as a sample for my Sewing Group.<br />
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And here is the pattern I used.As you can see, the dimensions are approximately 10" X 10" but it tapers off at the top.<br />
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The only other piece is a long rectangle pocket piece which measures twice the width of the bottom of the above piece ( 2 X 10" so 20'' by about 6"".) and two strips of bias tape or self made bias strips to coordinate with the body and pocket pieces.You should have enough to go around the body of the caddy and along the length of the long pocket strip.<br />
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Here are the pieces you need to cut out. I use flannelet between the two outer layers of the body of the caddy but you could use interfacing if you prefer.<br />
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Here are the steps.<br />
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1...Baste together the three layers of the body together. (Sorry no pic ).<br />
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2.Fold the long pocket strip in two lengthwise.<br />
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3. Sew the coordinating bias strip to the folded edge of the pocket strip.</div>
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4. Mark the midpoint of both the caddy body and the pocket strip and sew pocket at this juncture .</div>
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5. Sew each end of the pocket strip to the sides of the caddy and trim the corners.</div>
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6. Sew each half of pockets at their half way mark and then again until you have 8 sections .</div>
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7. Sew across the bottom to secure the sections to the caddy .Next the binding around the caddy and then across the top.</div>
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8. Press binding to wrong side and stitch in the ditch. Trim away extra fabric close to stitching.<br />
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9. Determine where best to add velcro closures and sew in place.<br />
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10. Fit caddy to your choice of mug by folding upper half into the mug.<br />
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Fasten with velcro closures.<br />
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For gift giving maybe you can add a sleep mask which should have a layer of black out drapery lining in between the the two fabric layers because this will make the mask much more effective in keeping out light.<br />
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Here is another idea for this type of caddy. A friend gave me this one which has been in my sewing room for years. It has a different design to fit over a tin can with elastic at the bottom. It would need to be designed for a specific size of holder but shouldn't be too hard to draft.<br />
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I hope this tutorial is clear and that you'll make one. It's quick to sew (1/2 hour ), and fun to match fun fabrics together and really useful for many things. I have one for make-up and make-up brushes that I find very useful.</div>
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Next up will be a short tutorial on how to make a hair towel</div>
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so more later from</div>
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-34239735629766797722015-11-29T10:55:00.001-08:002015-11-29T10:55:41.590-08:00Adding Side Panels to Burda 6988I just made this dress using <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-9761-burda-style-dress.aspx">Burda 6988.</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbLvWepOvhPNUcfuKPbEW94Sr9MFufIivWTKhtLcFgm7MTzmHD9ypZ6d_fAImjXFxAnsfPYLnfUVVOcQCLiTSWDOse_SlDVLzQiixqHw68DCzPej7XmEmy5-Cmzpl-19Qo9vy94-6TF8e/s1600/DSC06508+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbLvWepOvhPNUcfuKPbEW94Sr9MFufIivWTKhtLcFgm7MTzmHD9ypZ6d_fAImjXFxAnsfPYLnfUVVOcQCLiTSWDOse_SlDVLzQiixqHw68DCzPej7XmEmy5-Cmzpl-19Qo9vy94-6TF8e/s640/DSC06508+-+Copy.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Ii had the idea of slimming it down by adding panels to each side front and back.<br />
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This is what I did.<br />
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I cut my panels 3.5" wide by laying the pattern pieces (front and Back ) and tracing along the sides. I should say that I sewed in the dart first before tracing the front.<br />
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I then measured 3 and 1/8" from the sides of the dress and marked with my great measuring tool and my chalkener. This was my placement line for the panels.<br />
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Next I butted the edge of the panels against this placement line and pinned ,then stitched a 1/4 " seam allowance</div>
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I pressed the panel towards the sides and here I could have basted the layers together but I used strips of hem tape to fuse the two together.<br />
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After this the two layers were sewn as one and they serve as support for my flab and that's a good thing .<br />
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I hope this helps somebody and if not, it will serve as reminder for myself the next time I want to do this.<br />
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More later from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-80578823360720415982015-06-14T11:01:00.000-07:002015-06-14T11:01:17.834-07:00Burda 6998...Adding neck facing and Narrow Shoulder AdjustmentI love B<a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-9761-burda-style-dress.aspx">urda 6998.</a> It has become one of my favorite TNT patterns .<br />
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This pattern fit very well out of the envelope but I did tweak it a bit.<br />
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I found the boat neck too wide on my narrow shoulders and as the space between the armhole and the neckline was very narrow, I decided to not make my usual NSA. Instead , this is what I did.<br />
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I cut off the shoulder area as seen in the pic above and moved it in 1/2". The neckline was perfect after that. It created a little jag in the armhole but ,using my French Curve,I trued up the armhole and the sleeve fit fine.</div>
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I really dislike how neck facings have a tendency to roll to the outside in many garments even after <a href="http://understitching./">understitching</a>. The method I'm describing here wouldn't work for the sleeveless version of this dress.<br />
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I drew a facing that include the upper part of the armhole for both front and back.<br />
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I cut it out of the dress fabric<br />
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I stitched it to the neckline, understitched it, trimmed the seam allowance and turned it to the inside .<br />
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I then sewed it to the armhole before I put in the sleeves.<br />
That's all there is to it and the neck facing stays put. I love it!<br />
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<img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMoAN6LpyyRsCMI3Yb7dMe468gwDWYg8F0e9fYO7g1PGxe6Nyc6dJjkgwjlxqOSsxOTiINFOm94jTD-tb9Lro_-9gBLpGq0PBQxgzFehwDLSNStcpOdWU28wTqSuHPT2CHf3q49MNLa7Jm/s400/DSC09925.JPG" style="text-align: center;" width="400" /><br />
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And in case you're curious, here's the dress in the photos above.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQAPWbazmwfrPVfAXW93c6tgz5WJloFYQLdOJ8RSZsWUjr_32zff1yCzCfRQdcYsTvo34OrM2OBoHLM_ne34pon3GMWTUw_y_kzGhQyj4VyRNAPakb_Si4s5o8DQLf2X1GG_zNOrZ-8_vg/s1600/DSC09959.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQAPWbazmwfrPVfAXW93c6tgz5WJloFYQLdOJ8RSZsWUjr_32zff1yCzCfRQdcYsTvo34OrM2OBoHLM_ne34pon3GMWTUw_y_kzGhQyj4VyRNAPakb_Si4s5o8DQLf2X1GG_zNOrZ-8_vg/s640/DSC09959.JPG" width="426" /></a></div>
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Thanks for stopping by.<br />
More later from,<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-74480090926783101092015-01-10T06:34:00.004-08:002015-01-10T06:34:29.419-08:00Making a Twisted Fur Infinity ScarfI posted fur scarves I made as Christmas gifts on my other blog SewPassionista by DIANA and was asked for a tutorial , so here it is.<br />
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You'll need .4 meters (16") of a soft , drapey faux fur . Be careful in choosing your fur. The backing makes all the difference. If it feels stiff, it won't do.<br />
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Usually, this fabric comes in 150cm. (60") width. That will be too long. I made mine 33" long by 16"<br />
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If your fur is quite long or thick, it's best to shave the seam allowances. That's quite easy to do. Use your shears and clip off the fur as in the photo below. Be prepared for a mess!<br />
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Pin and sew the length of the scarf using a longer stitch length. I used 3.5. This will give you a long tube. <br />
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Turn right side out . Place a pin or other mark at the 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 way marks at each end of the scarf. This is an important step when you sew the two ends together but is a little hard to explain why (so I won't! Just trust me!)<br />
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Now lay the tube on your table. Twist the right hand end and butt it against the left end . ( I hope that makes sense).<br />
<b>This is half a twist</b><br />
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<b>This is a complete twist</b><br />
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Pin with right sides of fur together matching the seams, the 1/4 and 1/2 marks.Sew this part of the seam and stop.<br />
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Rearrange the ends of the scarf and pin the next 1/4 of the seam. This will probably be as far as you can sew by machine.<br />
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Once you've sewn that far, you will turn in the seam allowances of the last 1/4 and either hand stitch or what I did was zig zagged it shut by just catching the fabric when I zigged and sewing off the fabric when I zagged !! Does that make sense?<br />
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When you pull on the seam and fluff it, The stitching doesn't show at all..<br />
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I think these scarves are beautiful , elegant and so comfortable to wear . I hope you will try one!<br />
Please let me know if the instuctions are not clear.<br />
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<b>Bad pic but that's all I have !</b><br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-47637509357459709302014-12-31T07:04:00.001-08:002015-01-02T07:21:15.601-08:00Session 3- Lesson 2 Pressing Tools and Tips for Working with Knits<strong><span style="color: red;">Session 3 - Lesson 2</span></strong><br />
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So Sorry! I disappeared for a while there! I wrote this weeks ago and didn't have it quite finished so here it is at last. <br />
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These past weeks, I talked about pressing tools and how to use them. Needless to say,<em><strong> a good steam iron</strong></em> is the most important pressing tool you can own. Mine is the Olysso Pro and gives off lots of steam. I love it. <em><strong>An iron cleaner</strong></em> is a necessity as well. I use Rowenta and it works great for me.<br />
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PRESS CLOTHS...I try never to press directly on the right side of fabrics unless I test for results first. I use silk organza because you can see right through to your seams. They work great.<br />
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THE CLAPPER...This tool is almost always on my ironing board. It's used to get a nice crisp seam and is usually used in conjunction with steam, The idea is to steam the seam ,them clap down on it holding the clapper down firmly for a few seconds before moving on.<br />
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THE TAYLOR BOARD... is a tool I use especially when pressing the seams of collars, lapels, or for any seam that might show an imprint on the right side if pressed flat against the ironing board. I also have a homemade SEAM BOARD for the latter that is especially useful for pant leg seams.<br />
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PRESSING or TAILOR`S HAM...is used to shape collars, to press curved seams such as at the hip area, bust darts, princess seams, etc. I have a FOOTBALL STAND to hold my ham up when I need it to stand upright.<br />
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SLEEVE BOARD...This is probably the most used of my pressing tools besides my iron . I use it to press sleeve caps ,underarm seams , pant and sleeve hems, cuffs , curved waistbands, and any number of other things. I could not do without this one.<br />
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SLEEVE ROLL...Can be used like a sleeve board but not as easily. It`s good for sleeve seams . I have one but admit it is not used often.<br />
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SEAM ROLL... Mine is a homemade tool used to iron seams in pant legs or sleeves. It's rounded so the imprint of the seam won't show on the right side. ( My husband used two lengths of rounded trim which he glued together and I covered in layers of cotton flannel. )<br />
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And finally my<strong> HAMMER</strong> used mostly for denim but it's also handy for bulky collar points . or any bulky areas . I do suggest you use a cloth to cover more delicate fabrics.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Working With Knits...Part 1</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: black;"> When you want to sew a garment using a knit fabric, here are some of the guidelines I use:</span><br />
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1. Choose a pattern that is especially for knits. That info will be on the back of the pattern<br />
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2. Also on the back of the pattern ,you will see a gauge which will tell you to use a 4 inch double layer piece of your knit fabric. If it is suitable, you should be able to stretch it at least to the end of the gauge . If not , your garment will probably end up being too snug. You can try using a larger size but a muslin is a good idea in this situation.<br />
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3. As usual, prewash your fabric. If you're going to put your finished garment in the dryer, then you must dry the fabric in the same way. I never put made-by-me garments in the dryer so I hang my fabrics to dry.<br />
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4. Polyester thread is strong and a good choice for knit garments.<br />
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5. As for <strong>sewing machine needles</strong>, it may be necessary to try different types on a particular knit fabric. I start with <strong><em>Universal</em></strong> 70/10 or 80/12. If that doesn't work, I try<strong><em> Ball point</em></strong>,<strong><em> Stretch</em></strong> or <strong><em>Jersey</em></strong> needles.<br />
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6. <strong>What type of stitch to use</strong> ! A good question and you may want to experiment according to the knit fabric you are using. <br />
I've gone from using a small <strong><em>zig zag stitch of 1.5 width and 2.5 length </em></strong>as suggested by Sandra Betzina to a<strong><em> 2.8 length straight stitch</em></strong> ,as suggested by Peggy Sagers. <br />
The reason for this is that a <strong><em>zig zag stitch is so hard to unpick</em></strong> if I make a mistake. <br />
Peggy worked in Ready To Wear and a straight stitch is what is used there . I don't experience "popped " stitches with a straight stitch so that's what I've settled on.<br />
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7. BUT, for hems, to be sure not to get those popped stitches I use a <strong><em>twin needle</em></strong>. For tips on using a twin needle, please <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/01/twin-needles.html">click here</a> as I've covered that topic before.<br />
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8. <strong>ALWAYS </strong> baste your side seams rather than using a regular stitch , try your garment on and tweak the fit . This will save you a lot of grief!<br />
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9. If your fabric is very stretchy, you may want to stabilize your shoulder seams. to do this, I use clear elastic. Click<a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/p/stabilizing-with.html"> here</a> for a brief lesson on using clear elastic.<br />
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That's all I can think of for now. If anyone out there can add to these, please leave me a comment and I'll be happy to edit this post. I would be most grateful.<br />
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Happy Sewing from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-44458613625670745042014-10-12T13:09:00.001-07:002014-10-12T13:22:05.728-07:00Sewing Lessons Session 3... Rounded Upper Back Adjustment and Top Stitching Tips.The third session of my sewing class is well under way. I've decided to teach less new material this time and put into practice what we covered last session. I will from time to time add new material and will continue to give my take on different sewing techniques.<br />
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I've added a new section to the right sidebar called Diana's Easy Fitting Solutions.. I 've listed the various fit topics covered last time and will add new topics as they are covered. I've also updated Diana's Tutorials to include new techniques<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">Session 3, Lesson 1.... Rounded Upper Back Adjustment</span></strong><br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">1.</span></strong> Draw a perpendicular line from center back to the armhole (<strong><span style="color: blue;">AB</span></strong>) and about 1.5`` down from neckline.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><strong>2.</strong></span> Cut from center back (<span style="color: blue;"><strong>A</strong></span>) to but not through the armhole (<span style="color: blue;"><strong>B</strong></span>).<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><strong>3</strong></span>. Spread apart about 1/2" to begin with ( It`s hard to know exactly how much extra to add so this adjustment will be on a trial and error basis).<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><strong>4</strong></span> Draw a perpendicular line at about 3`` from center (<span style="color: blue;"><strong>CD</strong></span>). ( I forgot the D but I think you know what I mean ) Cut along this line.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">5.</span></strong> Align this piece along center back. This will result in a small dart.<br />
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You can do one of two things here....sew in this dart or what I do is I smooth out the neckline with my French curve and I ease in the tiny bit of fullness .<br />
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<strong><em>And that`s all there is to it. Except! If there is a facing to your garment , you make the same adjustment to it.</em></strong><br />
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<span style="color: black;">This easy alteration makes a big difference to how a garment fits and feels and I'm happy to have learned it from Kathleen Cheetham in her Craftsy course.</span><br />
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<strong><span style="color: blue;">This Week`s Sewing Technique: Top Stitching Tips.</span></strong><br />
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<span style="color: black;">In my opinion, nothing takes a garment to the next level better than great top stitching, Here are the things I`ve learned through the years.</span><br />
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......Use <strong><em>top stitching thread</em></strong> or <strong><em>Gutterman`s Extra Strong Thread</em></strong> which is what is available to me <br />
and works great. You will need to remember that there is a lot less thread on these spools so be sure to buy enough.. [ <em>if you don't have this thread, you can thread two spools together in the same needle to get similar results. The two should unwind from the spools in opposite directions, though for best results.</em> ]<br />
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......Use a<strong><em> top stitching needle or a jeans needle</em></strong> because both of these have bigger eyes to accommodate the thicker thread. The size of the needle will depend on the thickness of your fabric.<br />
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.....For top stitching that is 1/4" from the edge, use your presser foot as your guide or the 1/4"foot that may or may not have come with your machine. To top stitch close to the edge of your garment use the over edge foot or the blind hem foot<br />
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......And <strong><em>sew</em></strong> <strong><em>slowly!</em></strong><br />
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I also reviewed <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2014/06/lesson-6my-techniques-to-sew-darts.html"> Buttonholes</a> with the ladies this week. So Karen, Donna, and Dorothy don`t forget to review the tips by clicking on the word if you want to make your <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2014/06/lesson-6my-techniques-to-sew-darts.html">buttonholes</a> before next class!.<br />
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More later from,<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-28791656932623854622014-08-19T08:43:00.000-07:002014-08-20T05:52:08.185-07:00S.Betzina V 1101: Preparing Bodice for Chenille Effect<br />
So sorry to have been away so long. With family (and two sweet little girls ) staying for two weeks, I was feeling a little burned out but I`m back, so here goes.<br />
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<b>The next thing to do on the dress tunic is to prep it for the rows of stitching that will produce the chenille effect.</b><br />
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<span style="color: red;">*** </span>The facings have been turned to the inside and now, you will carefully pin the dress and the facing together. Take a lot of care doing this and be sure the two layers lay smoothly together because they must be like one layer before you proceed to the next step.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">***</span>Now, starting with the center front line , hand baste the two layers together including the darts, the neckline, armholes, sides and along the bottom of the facings.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">*** </span>Next from the facings side ,because that's where your markings are, stitch along each marked line. <span style="color: red;">( I used a 28 stitch length and regular polyester thread ).</span> I started at the top and sewed toward center front for each row of stitching.. I stopped there rather than turning and going from center toward the other side thus completing each V shape because that was less shuffling of the fabric and seemed easier to me . However you may want to sew the V`s. Up to you. <b>( Sorry, I forgot to take a oic of the finished stitching )</b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Note. </b></span><i>You may want to make a sample of the chenille on scraps of your fabrics, just to get an idea of what you`ll end up with and to practice the cutting step.</i><br />
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<span style="color: red;">***</span>Now you are ready to cut between each row of stitching on the right side of the garment.<br />
<b><span style="color: red;">Warning !!!! be very careful</span></b> . It is quite easy to cut right through the two layers. I did that while cutting my sample piece. These Fiskars scissors (can't think what they're called ) are especially for cutting this type of project and they worked really well for me.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>***</b></span>So you've finished cutting between all your stitched lines <i><b>and you think you're almost done don't you! Not so. </b></i>Now comes the messy and quite time consuming part....the fraying of each row. So grab a beverage, sit in your favorite easy chair,. turn on Netflix, and start pulling. I wish I had taken a pic of my mess. It was quite something to see.<br />
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About the photo above. My fabric is a two tone linen with the warp thread blue and the waft thread white. That's why my chevron is in two colours. Cool isn't it!<br />
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So now you've finished all the creative and time consuming steps in the making of Sandra Betzina's V1101. Next time, I'll show how to finish the armholes and the rest of the garment.<br />
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Please let me know if any of this didn't make sense or wasn't clear.<br />
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Enjoy this part of the process.<br />
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-29188649610870225212014-07-23T05:52:00.000-07:002014-07-24T18:18:25.806-07:00S. Betzina V1101 Sew Along Part 4 ( Shoulders and Neckline )<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b>Next step is to join the shoulder seams and the neckline seams on the tunic and the tunic facings. </b> </div>
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<b style="color: red;">For Tunic </b>With right sides together and using twill tape or ,as I did, the selvedge of a light fabric to stabilize the seam, sew a 5/8" seam. Press open or toward the back. <b><i>Note:I put the tape on the back side.</i></b></div>
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<b><span style="color: red;">For Facings </span>The side on which you drew the lines is the right side. Join the shoulder seams . No stabilizer this time. Pres open the seam.</b></div>
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You are now going to join the tunic and facing together <b><span style="color: red;">at the neckline only</span></b>. The armholes will be joined using a bias band of your fabric much later.. Mark you 5/8" seam allowance all the way around the neckline on one side (either facing or garment side). Pay particular attention to the corners where the small circles were on the pattern piece.</div>
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Again you must stabilize the neckline using a light weight selvedge or twill tape. On the tunic side (or side not marked with the stitching line because you don't want to cover up your stitching line), pin the stabilizer all the way around the neckline.over the stitching line.</div>
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Sew the neckline seam following the line you drew, being very careful to honour the 5/8" seam allowance. Clip at corners <b><i>to but not through the stitching.</i></b><br />
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Trim your seam to 1/4" but leaving the tunic side slightly wider than the facing side. To do this, cut from the facing side and hold your scissors at an angle leaning toward the facing.<br />
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Press the seam allowance toward the facing side<br />
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From the right side of the garment , <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/02/what-is-understitching-and-why-is-it.html">understitch </a>on the facing side . (<b><i> Click on understitch for a review if you don't remember how)</i></b><br />
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Press neckline seam which will want to favour the facing side because of the understitching.</div>
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At shoulder joint, if you have bulk, pound with a hammer gently to flatten out the seam.<br />
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Top stitch around the neckline if you wish but I chose not to.</div>
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Next time, I'll show you how to prepare for the sewing of the lines for chenilling.Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-3331287912932134782014-07-19T08:52:00.001-07:002014-07-19T08:57:25.864-07:00S, Betzina ( V1101 ) Sew-Along Session 3<b>Pocket Facings and Pockets</b><br />
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<i><span style="color: red;">The very first thing you sew on this dress is the pocket facings. I omitted the zipper closures on the pocket welt openings. Refer to the instruction sheet if you are using zippers.</span></i><br />
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...With your tracing wheel and tracing paper, trace the welt opening onto the fabric facings. You will already have traced the welt openings on <b><span style="color: red;">wrong side </span></b>of the tunic front.<br />
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...With contrasting thread in your bobbin, stay stitch around the welt openings being sure to start on one of the long sides well below the corner. When sewing around the corners, with needle down pivot, and count the number of stitches you sew on the first end and copy that for the other end.<br />
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...Pin the pocket facings to pocket interfacing with right sides together ... (The glue side of the interfacing is the wrong side )<br />
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...Sew around the two long sides and the rounded end of the facings but not the notched end.<br />
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...Turn to right sides and press carefully so that the glue side adheres to the fabric side of the facings. The facings now have a nice neat finish. Apply Steam-a-Seam around the edges of the facings. Leave the paper on.<br />
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...Position the facings to the outside of the front matching the notch on the facings to the notch on each side front.( <i>Sorry, I forgot to take a photo </i>)<br />
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...Pin carefully aligning the welt opening of the facings to the welt opening of the dress front.<br />
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...Sew around the welt opening from the wrong side of the tunic front being sure <b><i>to start on one of the long sides</i></b> and at the corners, with needle down pivot, and <b><i>count the number of stitches you sew on the first end and copy that for the other end.</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGRJ8017TQFPMC28Bhfy_DDLrGy87AA2jADHXe11oqwkLHt9K-XRnIw6MyakFcqVSMdoOI10mZyyLRXw2RnYkrXNnnnSIIFJ9ZR70K907c0OreUUoehl_jZW3WVy3E6CcX6GPvMyai7i3/s1600/DSC09426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyGRJ8017TQFPMC28Bhfy_DDLrGy87AA2jADHXe11oqwkLHt9K-XRnIw6MyakFcqVSMdoOI10mZyyLRXw2RnYkrXNnnnSIIFJ9ZR70K907c0OreUUoehl_jZW3WVy3E6CcX6GPvMyai7i3/s1600/DSC09426.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a><br />
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With sharp scissors, cut through all thicknesses of the welt opening , leaving long V's when cutting to but not through each corner.<br />
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Turn facings to inside of tunic front and press carefully. Remove paper from Steam-a-Seam and press to hold the facings in place.<br />
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...From the right side,topstitch 1/4" from the opening and then run a second line of stitching 1/4" away.<br />
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<b>You are now ready to add the pockets.</b><br />
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...First finish the edges (except the notched edge ) with a Hong Kong finish.<br />
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...Apply Steam-a-Seam around the pocket edges.<br />
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...Position the pocket on the wrong side of the front so the notch on the pocket side aligns with the notch on the side of the tunic front. (I accidentally cut size small for the pocket but C for the dress so my notches didn't match up. ) Be sure that everything is nice and flat. Press in place.<br />
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...If you get a nice stitch on the bobbin side, stitch the pocket from the wrong side. If you don't ,hand baste the pocket in place with a contrasting thread and stitch from the right side. Otherwise from the wrong side of the tunic, top stitch around the pocket.<br />
Sew a second row of top stitching 1/4" to the inside of the first row.<br />
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And that's it. You are ready for the next step which I'll post soon.<br />
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Good luck and Happy Sewing from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-29048219891361069582014-07-18T07:46:00.002-07:002014-07-18T07:46:55.836-07:00Sanfdra Betzina Sew-Along Session 2 Ok, so you've read the post on Bias Garments and have washed and prepared your fabric. now for the cutting out.<br />
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<b>My best advice is to follow the layout plan included in the pattern instructions.</b><br />
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You do not need to cut out interfacing for the bodice front and back facings if you plan to do the chenille effect. The only piece that needs <i style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">fusible </i>interfacing is the pocket facing. <b><i><span style="color: red;">Do not apply interfacing until I explain what to do with it.</span></i></b><br />
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<b>NOTE :</b> <b>The side of the facing that you want to peak through after cutting between the stitching lines should not be the side that lays against the marking paper. So if you want the right side of the facing to show through, the wrong side should be against the marking paper.</b><br />
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I used a large piece of waxed marking paper cause I love it and laid the facings with pattern still pinned over the paper and used a tracing wheel.<br />
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Now it's time to draw the lines for the chenille effect. On both the front and back facing pieces, you will see a line to use as a starting point. In the second photo below, I made a second line 4" away because I had planned to stop there but later changed my mind. Then draw lines 1/2 " apart as far up and as far down as you want with your tracing wheel.<br />
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As well mark the darts. I did a slight FBA on mine so you see the side bust dart as well as the armhole one.<br />
Oh and by the way, <i><b><span style="color: red;">don't sew in the darts yet</span></b></i> .They are only sewn after all the stitching for the chenilling is complete.<br />
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I decided to only do five lines on the back of my dress but you could leave it out completely or do the whole thing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_B-t4vtWCYdXLI5hc9nbNMgXW0cL91dAqbwyhes9DXsiB2KopGiXlqk1YsBlkDlah6SNvw0Rcx3Fp6UtiFNVHHlD2pCZtQDIsIR_KB4OTveD-CoyVtMx_jKK75IxcoABAJ2sE9okeJHd-/s1600/DSC09460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_B-t4vtWCYdXLI5hc9nbNMgXW0cL91dAqbwyhes9DXsiB2KopGiXlqk1YsBlkDlah6SNvw0Rcx3Fp6UtiFNVHHlD2pCZtQDIsIR_KB4OTveD-CoyVtMx_jKK75IxcoABAJ2sE9okeJHd-/s1600/DSC09460.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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After marking everything, set this aside. You are now ready to start sewing the dress the first thing to do is the pocket facings. Remember.<b><i><span style="color: red;"> Don't apply the interfacing yet!</span></i></b><br />
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I'll do my best to post the pockets step by late afternoon, Donna and Karen!<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-14719487982686765602014-07-16T12:34:00.000-07:002014-07-16T12:34:00.440-07:00Sandra Betzina Bias Dress Sew-Along ( V1101 )This is the first in a series of posts to accomodate my sewing ladies. They wanted to make this pattern ,V1101, as a tunic for a summer project.<br />
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The pattern is Out of Print and is not available on the BMV website. But if you are interested,and own the pattern, please join us and at the end I'll post all finished pieces at Sew Passionista by DIANA.<br />
I made it up as a dress, took many photos along the way and will attempt to guide you on this bias garment journey. Here is my sleeveless version.<br />
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<b>First let's decide on suitable fabric</b>. On the pattern envelope , the list of suitable fabrics includes<b> linen</b>, silk,<b> rayon crepe</b> and lightweight <b>denim</b>. I'd like to add that this pattern will work best with a fabric with plenty of drape. My linen was medium weight and it hangs really well. You will need a contrasting colour for the facing pieces which show through when you do the chenille effect on the bodice.</div>
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Wash your fabric and for some pointers <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/02/making-bias-garment.html">on bias garments, look here </a>at my post based on techniques learned from Sandra Betzina herself. It includes how to iron your fabric to prepare it for your bias cut garment. </div>
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You will be cutting this garment on one layer of fabric so don't fold it. If you are unsure about placing the pattern pieces on the fabric, each piece has a grainline drawn on it so use that as your guide and not the center front and center back lines. You will thus be cutting the pieces on the bias. ( <b><span style="color: red;">So to clarify, the grainline on the pattern pieces will be parrallel to the selvedge, thus the center front and back will be on the bias.</span></b> )</div>
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This will get you started on your way to making your bias tunic/dress. Leave the facing pattern pieces on the fabric because next time , I'll explain how to draw the chenille lines. Check back in a few days and I'll have the second post ready.</div>
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Have Fun!</div>
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-71286101402115591022014-07-14T06:06:00.000-07:002014-07-14T06:06:54.083-07:00Our Last Sewing Class and A Sewing Quiz<b><span style="color: blue;">Note: I wrote this post two weeks ago but events in my life caused me to forget to publish.</span></b><br />
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I'm a retired teacher as many of you know and once a teacher , always a teacher I guess because I couldn't end this session of lessons without testing my ladies! I surprised them with this little quiz/review of the sewing techniques we covered in the last two months. I didn't include any of the fitting/alteration points that we covered . I feel it takes a lot of trial and error before we can master those techniques.<br />
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<b>Here is a list of sewing terms. Please choose from this list to fill in the blanks of the following statements</b>. <b>. You may need to use an answer more than once.</b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b> basting stitches stabilizer</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> stay stitching interfacing</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> under stitching down </b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> bias narrow </b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> 5/8" shoulder </b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> 1/2" tear away stabilizer</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> 3/8" center</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> one inch stitch crowding</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> fusible vertical</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> Wonder Tape Fray Check</b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> horizontal underarm </b></span><br />
<span style="color: red;"><b> Steam-a-Seam stitch in the ditch</b></span><br />
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1. For most pattern companies the traditional seam width is <u> </u>.<br />
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2. To sew a Hong Kong finish to the inside seams of a garment use <u> </u> strips of a light weight fabric.<br />
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3. The stitching that is sewn on the facing of a garment and through all thicknesses of the seams<br />
and just beside the "ditch ' of the seam to help the facing turn to the inside of the garment is called<br />
<u> </u> .<br />
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4. To shorten the seam of an armhole or neckline it is helpful to sew with your finger<br />
at the back of the presser foot to form little puckers. This is called <u> </u>.<br />
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5.When inserting a zipper, always stabilize the back of the area with <u> </u> <br />
<u> .</u><br />
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6.Stitching sewn at 1/2" along the seam allowance to stabilize an area is called<br />
<u> </u> <u> </u><br />
<u><br /></u>
7.When inserting a sleeve,you should sew two rows of <u> </u><br />
<u> </u> between the front and back notches.<br />
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8. The two spots that must be matched on a sleeve and bodice are the <u> </u> seam and the<br />
<u> </u> seam.<br />
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9. It is important to finish a dart with a very<u> </u> point.<br />
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10.Bust darts are pressed <u> </u> and waist darts in both front and back are pressed toward the <u> .</u><br />
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11.Buttonholes are sewn <u> </u> inch from the edge of your garment. They are <u> </u><br />
for shirts and blouses, and <u> </u> for jackets and coats .<br />
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12. The technique where you sew between the two sides of a seam and from the outside of your garment<br />
is called <u> </u>.<br />
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13. Two products helpful when sewing buttonholes are <u> </u> and <u> .</u>.<br />
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14. A product that is helpful when applying a zipper is<u> </u> .<br />
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15. A product useful when finishing a hem, cuffs, or positioning a pocket when you are sure you won't want to move it is <u> </u> .<br />
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<a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/p/answeres.html"> Click here </a>for the answers.<br />
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And finally, a couple of pics of my students with their made by them garments. I had intended to take more pics featuring all their finished garments, but left it too late . Darn!<br />
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From left to right, Karen and Donna wearing their Sandra Betzina fluted blouse/jackets <a href="http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1385-products-47941.php?page_id=852">( V1385) </a>and Dorothy wearing her <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-2444-misses-separates.aspx">New Look 6762 </a> knit top and her Silhouette Patterns yoga pants<a href="http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/patterns/p_3400.htm"> # 3400</a>. Donna is also wearing a slim version which we developed of the yoga pants pattern.<br />
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-54022172074338701702014-06-24T07:22:00.003-07:002014-06-24T11:35:30.082-07:00Lesson 6...My Techniques to Sew Darts, Buttonholes, and Gaping ArmholesWe're nearing the end of he sewing classes until the fall. For the past two weeks, I've shared techniques that are useful to a sewist and am combining them in this week's post.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Techniques for Successful Darts</b></span><br />
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1. Mark the dart clearly with chalk or some other type of marker. For bust darts mark the beginning of the dart by making little clips in the side seam.<br />
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2. To pin, place your pin in one side and come out the other side.Don't close the dart yet.Go on to the next pin and so on until you get to the point. The photos should help illustrate what I'm trying to say.<br />
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3. Bring the dart together at each pin by pinching the sides together .<br />
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<b><i> I begin to sew at the wide side of the dart. Some prefer to start at the point.</i></b><br />
<b><i> It's important to aim toward the point of the dart as soon as you begin the sewing process. </i></b><br />
<b><i> and that the last little bit before the end of the point is very narrow. Sew slowly!</i></b><br />
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4. Sew along the legs of the dart until you have about an inch left before the point. <b><i>Reduce the stitch length to a very small stitch. I use 1.5 stitch length.</i></b> Finish the dart making sure the last half inch is very narrow. <b><i>Sew off the fabric. Don't back stitch. </i></b>The small stitch length makes it so you don't have to knot your threads.<br />
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<b><i> When sewing "fish eye" darts ( the kind that has a point at each end usually used to define the waist in both the front and back of a bodice) , it's best to start in the middle of the dart and sew to each end. This takes two steps but is worth it to get a nice skinny point at each end. </i></b><br />
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<b><i> Waist darts are pressed toward the center front or back and bust darts are pressed downward.</i></b><br />
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<b><i> Here is an example of one dart sewn correctly and another that has too wide a point at the end. Notice the difference after they are pressed.</i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="color: red;">For those of you (</span>Dorothy<span style="color: red;">) who prefer to learn through video, I found this one on line by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlxc5lF7hS0">Sure Fit Designs</a><u> </u></span></i></b><b><i>on darts.</i></b><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><br /></span></span><span style="color: orange;"><b>My Techniques for Sewing Buttonholes.</b></span><br />
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<b><i>It is very important to make a sample buttonhole or two on scrap fabric that has the same finish as your garment. If your garment has a facing ,your sample should also have a facing and the seam which joins the facing to the garment should be trimmed.</i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="color: red;">The rule of thumb is to make vertical buttonholes for shirts and blouses. and horizontal buttonholes for jackets and coats.</span></i></b><br />
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1. Apply fusible or sew-in interfacing behind the area where your buttonholes will be sewn.<br />
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2. Use a new needle on your machine. A Sharp needle #70/10 is a good choice. You could go smaller for lightweight fabric.<br />
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3. Mark the placement of your buttonholes with a pin to begin with<br />
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4. Wrap and pin pieces of tear away stabilizer over the area of each buttonhole.<br />
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5. Mark each buttonhole 3/8" to 1/2" from the outside of the garment as in the photo below. The long line does not indicate the length of the buttonhole<span style="color: red;"><b><i> unless you don't have an automatic buttonhole feature on your machine. </i></b></span>The line is to keep you stitching straight once you start sewing.<br />
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The automatic buttonhole foot will make your buttonhole to the size of your button which is placed in the back of the foot. <b><i>( I find it will make it a little too long so I take the button out and lessen the length by pushing in a little)</i></b><br />
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If you do not have an automatic buttonhole foot, the buttonhole should be the width of your button plus 1/8" or the thickness of the button.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>As much as possible, let your machine do it's job without touching the garment too much. Sometimes you might have to gently straighten it but the electronic mechanism does not like to be tampered with!</b></span><br />
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6.After your buttonholes are sewn , tear away the stabilizer and run a line of Fray Check along the opening. Allow this to dry before cutting open<b>.</b><br />
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<i style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Place a pin at the end of the buttonhole so you don't inadvertently cut past it. </i><i>Cut the opening.</i>Trim away stray garment threads being very careful not to cut the buttonhole thread. (Ask me how I know this!)<br />
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Sorry Dorothy. No video for this one.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>A Fix for Gaping Armholes or Necklines.</b></span><br />
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<b>I alreadyh ave covered this topic in another post so please <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/05/gaping-at-armscye.html">click here</a> for that information.</b><br />
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Again I do hope this has helped someone to improve their sewing skills. <span style="color: red;"><b>I would really appreciate some comments so that I know if it is worthwhile to continue with these lessons a</b></span>s they can be quite time consuming.<br />
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Hoping to hear from you,<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b><br /></b></span>Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-64301927159052416692014-06-15T12:00:00.004-07:002014-06-15T12:02:16.466-07:00Lesson 5...Sway Back Adjustment and Over lapped ZipperA little late with this, this week!<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Lesson 5...Sway Back Adjustment</b></span><br />
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If your tops or jackets bunch up above the waist like this in the back<br />
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then you need to do a very simple adjustment that will make such a nice difference..Here's what to do.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><b>Step1.</b>.</span>.</span>If possible , have someone fold the excess fabric and measure the depth of the fold.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><b>Step 2.</b></span>..Draw a line across the back somewhere above the waistline. Draw a second line above it that represents the amount of this measurement.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><b>Step 3..</b></span>.. Either cut along the first line and place the bottom part along the second line <u><b>or</b></u> fold the pattern by joining the two lines together , fold up and tape. (Does that make sense?). here, I've cut and moved up the bottom part.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><b>Step 4</b></span>...Your back side seam will now be shorter than the front side seam. Run a line of stay stitching 1/2' from the seam line just along where you altered the back. Make five clips 3/8" deep from the cut edge. This will help you stretch the back seam to fit the front seam.<br />
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<b><i>NOTE: when sewing the front and back side seams together, place the front against the feed dog and the back on top. The feed dogs will take care of the excess length of the front. This is a great thing to know whenever you are trying to ease a longer seam into a shorter one!</i></b><br />
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Having said that , if you take off more than 1/2", you'll have a hard time to fit the back to the front at the side seams . Keep in mind that...<br />
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..<a href="http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/">.Peggy Sagers of Silhouette Patterns</a> wants you to shorten the front pattern piece as well as the back piece.<br />
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...<a href="http://www.powersewing.com/">Sandra Betzina of Power Sewing</a> does it the way I described it.<br />
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...<a href="http://www.craftsy.com/classes/sewing?_ct=sbqii-qbb-jefys&_ctp=sewing">Linda Maynard at Craftsy </a> tapers the adjustment to nothing at the side seams.<br />
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...then try the different methods and see which one works for you.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Demonstration : Lapped Zipper Insertion</b></span><br />
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1... Fuse 1" wide strips of interfacing to the seam allowance of each side of the garment . Machine baste the seam to the marking for the bottom of the zipper and finish the seam with regular stitches.<br />
Press open the seam<br />
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2... undo basting stitches. Pin, hand baste or use Wonder Tape to affix the left side of the zipper to the edge of the left side of the seam. Using a zipper foot,stitch as close as possible to the zipper teeth.<br />
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3...Bring the right side of the seam over to the left side so that it overlaps the zipper and the seam.<br />
Pin , hand baste or use wonder Tape to hold it in place. Sew close to the zipper teeth on the right side and across the bottom of the zipper to join the seam on the left side.<br />
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This zipper insertion method is great for dresses, skirts and pants that open on the side seam.</div>
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<b><i>What really helps to achieve a great looking zipper is the use of fusible interfacing to stabilize the seam. It makes all the difference! You should try it!</i></b></div>
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<b><i>This coming week, I'll share with you my tips on sewing darts and on achieving successful buttonholes. Please come back in a few days to check it out.</i></b></div>
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-82449383738737750912014-06-04T14:03:00.000-07:002014-06-04T14:03:13.162-07:00Lesson 4 Narrow shoulder AdjustmentThis week's lesson was a simple one and an easy adjustment needed by many people because pattern companies seem to think we all have wide shoulders.<br />
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Lesson 4...Narrow Shoulders Adjustment <br />
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<i><b>Measure the back bodice pattern piece from center back to just inside the seam allowance at the shoulder. Double this number. This gives you the shoulder width of the garment you are going to make.</b></i><br />
<i><b>Compare the number to your own shoulder width. The difference divided by two is what you will decrease the pattern shoulder by. </b></i><br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Step 1</span>...You will do this to both the front and back bodice pieces.<br />
Draw a line parallel to the grain line from mid shoulder to about half way down the armscye (armhole). Draw a second line at right angle to this one to the armscye (armhole).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeLaYtNie3mDT0vQON0uKRN5BgSjc5kzMsNNEO3reURT2Xhujb8eLZcDFffiUFTRt4NxKal8N_2FYc8pCIEz77Xxujp9FXialC4FrpaNb4TJsnDurpzNI5qUeVchPFMERXKzj5d7kNvdY/s1600/DSC01232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizeLaYtNie3mDT0vQON0uKRN5BgSjc5kzMsNNEO3reURT2Xhujb8eLZcDFffiUFTRt4NxKal8N_2FYc8pCIEz77Xxujp9FXialC4FrpaNb4TJsnDurpzNI5qUeVchPFMERXKzj5d7kNvdY/s1600/DSC01232.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: orange;">Step 2</span>... Measure from the first line the amount you are decreasing by and draw a line as in the photo below.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Step 3</span>...Cut out the piece formed by the first two lines (I forgot to label the lines ) and lay it along the third line.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Step 4</span>... Slip some paper under the pattern. With your French Curve (or a bowl would work ), smooth armscye.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4c5l5JR-3SgdpEE70rcSeeNCnF3tKEUsT1gh8GwuX4pozyOssiOeVXdyMyqrlpIbX7nvzTT9QT3dMsEdly1tMWi4lB4i49azjZ6TVvHblwVmFulLz7LzXEEY3EDvIhooQMBh9pMLJNrdD/s1600/DSC01238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4c5l5JR-3SgdpEE70rcSeeNCnF3tKEUsT1gh8GwuX4pozyOssiOeVXdyMyqrlpIbX7nvzTT9QT3dMsEdly1tMWi4lB4i49azjZ6TVvHblwVmFulLz7LzXEEY3EDvIhooQMBh9pMLJNrdD/s1600/DSC01238.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<i><b> You can see that you gain a little in the upper part and lose a little in the lower part . That will not affect the fit of the sleeve which you do not </b></i><i><b>have to alt</b></i><i><b>er at all.</b></i><br />
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<i><span style="color: #990000;"><b>For Wide Shoulder Adjustment, you would reverse this process.</b></span></i><br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Demonstration: Inserting a zipper</b></span><br />
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<i><b>I'm only showing a regular zipper and not the invisible zipper at this time.</b></i><br />
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A.For a center applied zipper;<br />
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<b>1. Cut two strips of fusible interfacing 1" wide and 1"longer than the length of your zipper. Fuse to the seam allowance</b><br />
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<b>2. Sew the seam using basting stitches to the the end of the zipper placement notch and changing to a regular stitch to complete the rest of the seam. Press the seam open</b><br />
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<b>3. Either pin or using Wonder Tape which is a wash away, thus temporary, fusible tape, and with the zipper face down, affix the zipper exactly over the "ditch" of the seam.The top of the zipper should be just below the neckline seam.</b></div>
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<b>NOTE:</b> <span style="color: #990000;">I cut off about 1/4" of the zipper tape because I don't like to enclose it in the neckline seam as it is too bulky.)</span></div>
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<b>4. Without opening the seam, and using a zipper foot, sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can . You will have to move the zipper head out of the way so the seam will have to be open at that spot. (Be sure to leave the needle down) .Then move it back again and continue to the bottom, sew across the bottom and sew the other side the same way as the first.</b></div>
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Your finished zipper will look like this. Well I didn't press or open the top of the seam but you get the idea.</div>
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<i><b>This method is used mostly at the center back seam of dresses or skirts.</b></i><br />
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Next week, I'll show the lapped zipper method.<br />
I hope this was useful to someone!<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-52320042757288662722014-05-28T07:32:00.003-07:002014-05-28T08:42:49.453-07:00Sewing Class... Lesson 3<div>
I only have three students in my class but ,for me, that's an ideal number. I'm not in it for the money but for the sheer joy of sharing my love of sewing.<br />
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I started in September with these same ladies . I wasn't sure how to go about teaching sewing so I just winged it. Everyone worked on a project of their choice and I taught about choosing patterns and fabric, I took their measurements and I altered their patterns for them. I covered such basics as using 5/8 " seam allowances, etc. This session lasted about three months until winter put a stop to it.<br />
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This time around, the teacher in me took over and I decided that the classes should have a little structure so I decided I would start each night with a simple pattern alteration lesson. Each of the ladies need a Full Bust Adjustment on their bodice patterns , so that's why I started with the two previous and this week's topic. Now, each lady can do her own alteration.<br />
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I also do a demonstration of a specific technique such as the Hong Kong finish ,which I did because of a request by Dorothy, Stitch in the Ditch, and setting in a sleeve. Next week I'll demonstrate inserting a zipper. I also review things learned in the fall as the need arises. This all takes about a half hour and then everyone gets busy.</div>
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Full Bust Adjustment on Princess Seamed Garments (Simplified Version )</b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Step 1</span>...Draw a line across both pieces of the bodice about half way between the two notches on each piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDrJGlMfbi2PSpPT-kb3_D0xWOVhXvFcFgNRjGoxS9O0xjiIBsSCO3JsUVhQKDdnsSuQNsxofIPlYmtgcJW0rhION5-Mfko1HJINMtIXvDbBEukaLxNNUyt5cYetMuNLpSx9moGf8sfks/s1600/e62bac03ad907d4215bda54af12ffc2d1130186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDrJGlMfbi2PSpPT-kb3_D0xWOVhXvFcFgNRjGoxS9O0xjiIBsSCO3JsUVhQKDdnsSuQNsxofIPlYmtgcJW0rhION5-Mfko1HJINMtIXvDbBEukaLxNNUyt5cYetMuNLpSx9moGf8sfks/s1600/e62bac03ad907d4215bda54af12ffc2d1130186.jpg" height="216" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #cc0000;">Step 2</span>... On the front side bodice piece. cut along the line <i><b>to but not through</b></i> the side and spread open 1/2" for each cup size above a B cup. Using a French Curve, join the line where it was spread apart .<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7VvWt4EDCifMlLAeb0KfcGnQ6g5wnuesCh08OTZ7f9IRKf64jv1BIglHbP6z-EAoBHSuieyta34iVe5jayvPVx7Mq5m3wX2_2BrvnQEhkPm8KneLUjOUlGSsFnWZ7Le_QB6I-mHe7-jN/s1600/b4fbc8165b264bc64e5af931423efe0b1130186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM7VvWt4EDCifMlLAeb0KfcGnQ6g5wnuesCh08OTZ7f9IRKf64jv1BIglHbP6z-EAoBHSuieyta34iVe5jayvPVx7Mq5m3wX2_2BrvnQEhkPm8KneLUjOUlGSsFnWZ7Le_QB6I-mHe7-jN/s1600/b4fbc8165b264bc64e5af931423efe0b1130186.jpg" height="150" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: red;">Step 3.</span>.. On the center front bodice piece, cut along the line and through each side. Spread apart the same amount that was spread for the side front . True each side edge.<br />
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<i><b>You didn't </b></i><i><b>in</b></i>cr<b><i>ease the pattern at the side seam so it is still the same length as the back side seam.</i></b> <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz9w7BVGXK0LtkeYiHVzDL69LbsO-HE2PFvt2CgL5JrNLjdPcJWd8pOnWmKMX8JFLHwTrJPXDm5PVJBZsuKbm0dtGESfWRk0lMmhx0P79MVrxN3Lskj77QyavIlx39y0NpgnAmuLhL0he/s1600/9251f8d7c543b510b8b2f4e5f87ccd941130186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPz9w7BVGXK0LtkeYiHVzDL69LbsO-HE2PFvt2CgL5JrNLjdPcJWd8pOnWmKMX8JFLHwTrJPXDm5PVJBZsuKbm0dtGESfWRk0lMmhx0P79MVrxN3Lskj77QyavIlx39y0NpgnAmuLhL0he/s1600/9251f8d7c543b510b8b2f4e5f87ccd941130186.jpg" height="207" width="400" /></a></div>
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Your pattern will now fit nicely over the bust area.<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTSZLSmG8zY1Kj1X4m13YbBCdhj0ih4oYXe1JQIqfId5N-g__EOANrtJPVqbIebXDH1xcs8kaJ16bkYTyKWqhZbKB3olYh9SgI1o7mj6SuVGTg9r8FwXvcPEeZ2qVVtSGzDi2NGGIwijWq/s1600/DSC01177.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></div>
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<u style="background-color: white;"><br /></u><u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">Note: This method works for me as well as my students. It may not provide enough room over the bust if you are very large in that area. You would need to do the slash and spread method. Please let me know if you would like me to show how to do that.</span></u><br />
<u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></u><u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></u><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: orange; text-decoration: underline;">Demonstration... Setting in a Sleeve </span> ( so sorry about the quality of these photos!!!)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: blue;">1.<span style="text-decoration: underline;"> </span> Sew two rows of basting stitches from just before and just after the front and back notches on the sleeve cap.using the largest stitch length on your sewing machine Sew the first one at 5/8 " from the edge and the second row about 1/8" on the inside of the first one.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><b><i>Be sure that you have marked the front and back sleeve notches as well as the shoulder dot.</i></b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSbcWMUEfjXYhKJksUc2aOZkRvVVDEnERxW7orsgXOZRxIP63Dlvl8AKGjx2pvF0BKB9CRXN0BnC8UI7_BkOxnugU9FN8c-0dHV_gwRnVHOubiung3iGlGe30AvVMHTdmLA47eLzbDxfL/s1600/IMG_20140527_172806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSbcWMUEfjXYhKJksUc2aOZkRvVVDEnERxW7orsgXOZRxIP63Dlvl8AKGjx2pvF0BKB9CRXN0BnC8UI7_BkOxnugU9FN8c-0dHV_gwRnVHOubiung3iGlGe30AvVMHTdmLA47eLzbDxfL/s1600/IMG_20140527_172806.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></u><span style="background-color: white; color: blue;"><u>2.</u> Sew the sides of the sleeve together. Draw up both rows of the basting stitches</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;"> and distribute the fullness evenly along the cap of the sleeve between the notches and beyond if necessary.</span>. <b><i>Be careful that there are no lumps and that it is as smooth as possible.</i></b><br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj39RY6O9aPtiue1iPxu-KN9JQ03zy1PACgf5KpHkVjXeJpqP7xB8Apo-SbQ7xn89EZVVfEXl3SeD37CfKazgtiFsC16wPzzTabXeIQDhfPUjF7J_mF9hcVEqTVig0ujrQmaKKD0e77z0Rs/s1600/IMG_20140527_173450.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></div>
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<u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></u><span style="background-color: white;"><b><i><span style="color: blue;">3...</span></i></b></span><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">Pin the sleeve matching the shoulder at the dot and at the under arm seam.</span> <b><i>These are the two most important places and you must match these two points.</i></b></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgohTvjxYGWkTxAt2S5asZnlO5gyzpC02W38kxeaNJs9L-phR9Sf9F5WvKTzrS7NWsAgOjtzMlSWSC6I3qL7YL_v8Zw1ysHDqu9-2w7BF-U8aTaIRdQVlVEHfgeg4LB_amyMr1cmLtLdU8m/s1600/b2e5725f0f44a7af62cbaaada0a254441130186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgohTvjxYGWkTxAt2S5asZnlO5gyzpC02W38kxeaNJs9L-phR9Sf9F5WvKTzrS7NWsAgOjtzMlSWSC6I3qL7YL_v8Zw1ysHDqu9-2w7BF-U8aTaIRdQVlVEHfgeg4LB_amyMr1cmLtLdU8m/s1600/b2e5725f0f44a7af62cbaaada0a254441130186.jpg" height="337" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">4..Pin the rest of the sleeve smoothing the gathers as you go and avoiding <b style="font-style: italic;">clusters</b> of stitches.</span> </span><i><b><span style="background-color: white;">D</span><span style="background-color: white;">on't worry if you do not match the notches perfectly.</span></b></i><span style="background-color: white;"> <span style="color: blue;">It's better to go beyond the notches than to have a sleeve that looks puckered or gathered on the outside.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HQtkW8xCez2sl7NR2uTjog4ul-sPISD2Heb5-yWfhgTPhzRMGCgBI4zUP5q8GZ9MA_NDS2cFO1YZEksetb3VhMYsl61-N8Ej7ibErSyKBrY0s8NfXJBGQbfetY-o7h-c2t17vL5P4gkp/s1600/a7823eaf95255efce957ad297eb9196e1130186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2HQtkW8xCez2sl7NR2uTjog4ul-sPISD2Heb5-yWfhgTPhzRMGCgBI4zUP5q8GZ9MA_NDS2cFO1YZEksetb3VhMYsl61-N8Ej7ibErSyKBrY0s8NfXJBGQbfetY-o7h-c2t17vL5P4gkp/s1600/a7823eaf95255efce957ad297eb9196e1130186.jpg" height="249" width="640" /></a></div>
<u style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></u><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"> Your sleeve will look like this. I know it looks puckered but it will be OK.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBUQ7Wi7BrI6-ntEeicvj4hOuWmzUNCWEWIrLsZVxmT2uLR_OEZ7LFJB7-7kxVZl0eHIEA_L6kKvmNi1kYfD1DyXTNSpD6dA22neUxBvjRLOQd8bGEjDx_xGQDvhr1Hw0WBNrNmsREtcWg/s1600/IMG_20140527_210347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBUQ7Wi7BrI6-ntEeicvj4hOuWmzUNCWEWIrLsZVxmT2uLR_OEZ7LFJB7-7kxVZl0eHIEA_L6kKvmNi1kYfD1DyXTNSpD6dA22neUxBvjRLOQd8bGEjDx_xGQDvhr1Hw0WBNrNmsREtcWg/s1600/IMG_20140527_210347.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">5. Sew with the sleeve side up and be careful to sew exactly at 5/8". ( Bad pic! ) I start sewing at one of the notches.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaj5cwTBZSe-BMKsXXAC9KcduuMcAgOsYOtO2UsQdZ17XJZuX1PHmwwifyDtC6b7MrHz65D7Fs6yPo0o3-iL8fQ120IizN30B_gd2FN-MyPkiaMRKoLwoc4biAZqEjM5rSK-nLnZl9zwL/s1600/IMG_20140527_210551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwaj5cwTBZSe-BMKsXXAC9KcduuMcAgOsYOtO2UsQdZ17XJZuX1PHmwwifyDtC6b7MrHz65D7Fs6yPo0o3-iL8fQ120IizN30B_gd2FN-MyPkiaMRKoLwoc4biAZqEjM5rSK-nLnZl9zwL/s1600/IMG_20140527_210551.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="background-color: white;">6...Reinforce the seam between the notches by sewing about 1 8``</span><span style="background-color: white;">on the inside of the seam.</span></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGv_zxbXSTNFMcBZ-Qg4vk3HoUiEvtn37bLNVM4Veq6E-hZGylOJ0aOHiqs91HU7MtrvmnlnnDh9jfbNIFRr2pyIn75kwNGU4vvOG8xE5N5ALV9pQz2Qggv_S3VFq3S9UAa4WNCyU0M97-/s1600/IMG_20140527_210900.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGv_zxbXSTNFMcBZ-Qg4vk3HoUiEvtn37bLNVM4Veq6E-hZGylOJ0aOHiqs91HU7MtrvmnlnnDh9jfbNIFRr2pyIn75kwNGU4vvOG8xE5N5ALV9pQz2Qggv_S3VFq3S9UAa4WNCyU0M97-/s1600/IMG_20140527_210900.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"> 7... <span style="color: blue;">Trim the seam between the notches to about 1 4``. You don`t trim the rest of the sleeve seam.</span></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;"> Press the sleeve lightly toward the sleeve</span></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">And that`s all there is to it ! Most of the time , your sleeve will be pucker free. The problem arises when the sleeve has too much ``ease``. But that`s another story for another tim</span><br />
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Check back in next week when I`ll be showing how to narrow a shoulder and demonstrating inserting a zipper.<br />
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-88886141724726022982014-05-20T11:50:00.003-07:002014-05-20T11:50:59.768-07:00Sewing Class. ...Lesson 2At this week's sewing class, I covered the Full bust Adjustment on a bodice that already has a dart and I explained what Stitch in the Ditch is and where it is useful.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b>Lesson 2: FBA with Existing Dart.</b></span><br />
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This adjustment is very much like the last lesson but we have to deal with the dart that is already there.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 1... </b></span>Locate bust point by measuring from shoulder seam at neck to center of bust<br />
(nipple). Draw a small circle <span style="color: #cc0000;">(A) </span>on bodice front pattern to represent your measurement.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 2... </b></span>.Draw a line from bottom of bodice front parallel to center front line to the bust point. <span style="color: red;">(AB)</span><br />
Draw a line from bust point to the notch on the armscye (armhole). <span style="color: red;">(AC)</span><br />
<b><u> Draw a line joining the mid point of the dart along the bodice side to the bust point. <span style="color: #cc0000;">(AD)</span></u></b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 3... </b></span>Cut along the first line to the bust point and from the bust point <u><b>to but not through</b> </u>the armscye.<br />
Spread the pattern 1/2 inch for each cup size above a B cup at the bust point. <i><b>Ex...for a D cup ,you would spread 1 inch.</b></i><br />
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<span style="color: red; font-weight: bold;">Step 4... </span>Cut along line AD <b> ( but not through the bust point)</b> then straighten the bodice side and join the bottom to the center front piece at (B). This will increase the bust dart.<br />
At bottom , you will need to even out and add to the bottom of center front which will give you the extra length needed so your top won't hike up.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000; font-weight: bold;">Step 5... </span>Slip paper under the pattern. From <b><i>mid point of new dart</i></b>, draw a line to the <b><i>original bust point.</i></b> Measure back about 2" along this line. Draw a line from this point to<b><i> each of the original legs </i></b>on bodice side. <b><i>This is the new dart </i></b>.<br />
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<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b>Step 6...</b></span> To even out the side of the bodice, fold the dart shut and down. Draw a smooth line with French curve and trim. When the dart is opened ,it will stick out along the side as it should.<br />
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Again, your pattern should now fit over your bust.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><u>Technique Demonstration: Stitch in the Ditch. </u></span><br />
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Click <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/03/stitch-in-ditch.html">here</a> for instructions on how to do this very useful stitch.<br />
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<b><i><u>Where you would Stitch in the Ditch;</u></i></b><br />
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<span style="color: purple;">1.<i>To secure the inside of a waistband or cuffs on a shirt and to eliminate bulk.</i></span><br />
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<i><span style="color: purple;"> 2. At shoulder and underarm seams to secure facings so they will stay to the inside of a garment.</span></i><br />
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<i> <span style="color: purple;"> 3. At side seams of waistbands which have been elasticized to keep elastic from shifting and rolling</span><span style="color: #4c1130;">. ( no pic)</span></i><br />
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<i><span style="color: #4c1130;"> </span><span style="color: purple;"> 4. To join upper and under collar together on a jacket or other garment.</span> (<a href="http://sewpassionista.blogspot.ca/2013/09/a-ufomarci-tiltons-v8620-jacket.html"><span style="color: black;">See jacket</span><span style="color: purple;"> here</span></a><span style="color: purple;">)</span></i><br />
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<i><b>Of course there are other places you might stitch in the ditch. I'll leave you to find them for yourself!</b></i><br />
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<i><span style="color: #4c1130;"> </span> I hope this is useful to you. Please let me know if something isn't clear or doesn't make sense.</i><br />
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<i>Come back next week for another lesson and technique demonstration.</i><br />
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-85886128599042534972014-05-12T08:08:00.000-07:002014-05-12T08:09:33.635-07:00Sewing Class...Session 2, Lesson 1I'm starting the second term of sewing lessons and I thought I'd record the individual lessons here so my students could access them to review what was covered each night. As it happens , all my ladies need to make a Full Bust Adjustment on their garments. I decided , this was a good place to start!<br />
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<span style="color: purple;"><b>Class #1 (May 7, 2014 )</b></span><br />
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<span style="color: orange;"><b><u>Lesson...Full Bust Adjustment and Adding a Bust Dart</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 1... </b></span>Locate bust point by measuring from shoulder seam at neck to center of bust<br />
(nipple). Draw a small circle <span style="color: #cc0000;">(A) </span>on bodice front pattern to represent your measurement.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 2... </b></span>.Draw a line from bottom of bodice front parallel to center front line to the bust point. <span style="color: red;">(AB)</span><br />
Draw a line from bust point to the notch on the armscye (armhole). <span style="color: red;">(AC)</span><br />
Draw a third line from bust point to the bodice side about 3 or 4 inches below under arm. <span style="color: red;">(AD)</span><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 3... </b></span>Cut along the first line to the bust point and from the bust point <u><b>to but not through</b> </u>the armscye.<br />
Spread the pattern 1/2 inch for each cup size above a B cup at the bust point. <i><b>Ex...for a D cup ,you would spread 1 inch.</b></i><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 4... </b></span>Slip some paper under the pattern. Cut along the other line drawn <span style="color: red;">(AD</span>) from bust point to bodice side. <i><b> <u>Cut to but not through the bust point </u>.</b></i><br />
Straighten the side of the pattern so it is once again parallel to the bodice center front .This will open the bust dart.<i><b>{ Notice that the bottom is now uneven. Slip paper under and extend the lower center front. This will give you more room and your garment will no longer hike up at center front.}</b></i><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 5..</b></span>.At the side measure the width of the dart and mark the midpoint. Draw a line from this midpoint to the bust point.<br />
On this line measure about 1.5 to 2 inches back from the bust point . Draw a line from this point to each side of the dart on the bodice side .These lines are the dart legs.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 6..</b></span> Tape everything in place.Carefully fold the dart closed and lay it downward on the bodice side Draw a smooth line and cut away any excess from the side edge.Now open dart, lay flat and you should see a little shape jutting out from the side.<br />
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<b>You are finished and your bodice pattern piece should now accommodate the size of your bust!</b><br />
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<u><span style="color: orange;"><b>Demonstrat</b></span><b style="color: orange;">ion...<a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/04/hong-kong-finish_15.html">The Hong Kong Seam Finish</a></b></u><br />
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Click<a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/04/hong-kong-finish_15.html"> here</a> for the instructions for this beautiful way to finish the inside of an unlined garment.<br />
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Here are a few examples.<br />
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Next week, we'll cover the <span style="color: red;"><b>Full Bust Adjustment</b></span> for a bodice that already has a bust dart.<br />
I'll also demonstrate the <a href="http://dianassewinglessons.blogspot.ca/2010/03/stitch-in-ditch.html">Stitch in the Ditch </a>technique.<br />
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I hope this is useful to others as well as Karen , Dorothy and Donna.<br />
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As always, more later from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-90002116450720254202014-05-06T17:17:00.001-07:002014-05-06T18:57:19.990-07:00Sewing a Collar and a Band<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
I got a request via Email to explain how to get a collar and collar band even on both sides. I thought that was an excellent question so thank you Enid.</div>
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Here is the collar and band on my recently made <a href="http://butterick.mccall.com/b5786-products-22958.php?page_id=363">B5786</a></div>
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To begin with,I often interface both the upper and lower collar and both parts of the collar band.<br />
In my sample , I only did the upper collar and one part of the band because my fabric is a substantial cotton/lycra knit and I might add not an ideal fabric to show off top stitching or pressing skills as you will see.<br />
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I also want to note that after teaching ladies who already sew to sew better, a common flaw is to not honour the 5/8" seam allowance required by most pattern companies. I also notice that they don't trim off excess interfacing such as you see below .This will affect your results so be careful about these "little" things.<br />
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I will now proceed with a step by step of how I achieve my results.<br />
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<span style="color: red;">Step 1</span>....<b>On the interfaced side of the collar and band because it is the most stable and you will sew from this side ,carefully measure and mark the 5/8" seam allowance. I use a fast fade marker for this. Be particularly careful with the curve of the band.</b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Be sure to mark the circle on each side of the band.. The collar will fit between the two circle.</b></span><br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">Step 2.</span>...Sew the upper and lower collar together being very careful to follow your marked line. Don't stop at the corner and turn but sew right off the piece and then start again. You will get a much cleaner and even point or corner this way.</b><br />
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<b>Press the seams of the collar on a tailor board if possible. Take time to press carefully until you have nice crisp edges. If you are planning on top stitching , now is the time to do it.</b><br />
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<span style="color: red;"><b>Step 3.</b></span>.....<b>Place one band on either side of the collar making a ''sandwich''. (Sorry that my pic only shows one end.) The circles on the band should be located at the edges of the collar.</b></div>
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Step 4......Sew exactly on the line drawn on the band. Trim the seam , turn the band to the right side to expose the collar. Press carefully. Do not top stitch the band until after it is sewn to the garment.<br />
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<b>Your collar with band is now ready to be sewn to your garment </b>.<br />
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If you take your time, mark the 5/8'' seam allowances ,sew and press carefully, you should achieve great looking collar and band Good luck with this and Happy Sewing from<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5318771120716588521.post-29487716544882618242014-04-04T17:43:00.001-07:002014-04-04T17:43:52.155-07:00Organizing My New Sewing Room...Part 1Most of you have probably seen my new sewing room at Sew Passionista by DIANA and I thank you for the comments.To avoid a too long post, I'm doing only Part One of two parts, tonight.<br />
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I wanted to give a few details of how I organized my new space in hopes of maybe helping someone else who wants to reorganize her space.<br />
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I spent many hours thinking about, drawing and searching the internet for ideas for my new room but I think many years of a small crowded space and a lot of sewing experience were my best guides to achieve what I wanted .<br />
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More than anything, I didn't want any clutter and I had to have enough room so my cutting table would fit in the middle of the room.. I think I achieved all that.<br />
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There had to be a cohesiveness about the furnishings. For this, I relied on the Internet. I started with my main wall units. My search finally took me to Canadian Tire and <a href="http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/for-living-woodfield-wide-closet-starter-kit-0681667p.html#.UzNDwfldXZ0">these closet organizers.</a> They are also found at<a href="http://www.sauder.com/Products/412910_Starter_Kit.aspx"> Sauder.com.</a><br />
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At first I only wanted two towers but my husband was really sure I would need three and he was right.<br />
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Almost all of my fabrics found a place here. The large baskets at the bottom used to be in my family room under a shuffle board game which we donated to our community center. It held toys and games for grandchildren . Now they hold my fabrics for coats, suits, and linings. I even took pictures of each fabric as I layered them in the baskets so I would know where everything is.<br />
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The rolled up fabrics are my lighter knits. I grouped denims and sportswear fabrics on one shelf and heavier knits on another. Whites have their own space as well. So do printed fabrics and quilting flannels. ( I don't quilt so I don't know why I bought those!).<br />
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Other baskets hold my Threads, Vogue Patterns, and Burda magazines. I have baskets of larger scraps like denims in one basket and leathers, real and faux as well as suede in another. Laces and fancies are here.<br />
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This shelf holds my small collection of sewing books and pattern books which I get from Fabricville from time to time. Patterns are in covered shoe boxes on the top shelves.<br />
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The drawers hold silks, interfacings and materials for pattern drafting and alterations.<br />
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I left my more expensive wool fabrics in the closet in my old sewing room so they wouldn't be exposed to too much light.<br />
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Pretty much my whole stash is on these shelves. I donated many pieces to the Craft College in a a nearby city.<br />
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Here is my pressing station. Everything I need during the ironing process is close at hand here,<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JqkPXEmPjdqNd1FFFmUxc8STiRzK1cAiZPEjoynPuhVAZObGzlL15kgmrBTvFH9q8TDknu8HwI_TobOEsDltpsgeFbM-FASEx8llXk4Wp4HMw9HloAHPi6blUTSwPy_8CIaEGdKTl7K7/s1600/IMG_20140404_212113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JqkPXEmPjdqNd1FFFmUxc8STiRzK1cAiZPEjoynPuhVAZObGzlL15kgmrBTvFH9q8TDknu8HwI_TobOEsDltpsgeFbM-FASEx8llXk4Wp4HMw9HloAHPi6blUTSwPy_8CIaEGdKTl7K7/s1600/IMG_20140404_212113.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span id="goog_1378695912"></span><span id="goog_1378695913"></span>My inspiration board is also my project planning board.<br />
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. This basket also holds pattern papers, rulers, my sleeve board and whatnot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmM7yu_y-95g0xCaUO9s6y6V7wnsPca0QYSMzHrnYt6jzlVC85fobR7AGQaTrXtWlEuudkPsY9uDuIPzV_wUApRREn3MMrzsT9ne6CVlchiEPWBkHSGdQfrA3ADMBqx4lLM9Fv-WY3HSi/s1600/DSC01022+-+Copy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHmM7yu_y-95g0xCaUO9s6y6V7wnsPca0QYSMzHrnYt6jzlVC85fobR7AGQaTrXtWlEuudkPsY9uDuIPzV_wUApRREn3MMrzsT9ne6CVlchiEPWBkHSGdQfrA3ADMBqx4lLM9Fv-WY3HSi/s1600/DSC01022+-+Copy.JPG" height="640" width="396" /></a></div>
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My grandchildren keep me company while I practice my craft.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn12r8b5ZMMX2AL8RxItqicaGMVVOYeMI262HzaziVxdJoeEqM3PKew-ysj0rTvYesCJFsM4j3ZANroDzXHX2pLrILuHYE2xjGCS1QgWfxp6YJjyLF_W4K4seVLEmA6-h2VHYJm0c7NU2x/s1600/IMG_20140330_151025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn12r8b5ZMMX2AL8RxItqicaGMVVOYeMI262HzaziVxdJoeEqM3PKew-ysj0rTvYesCJFsM4j3ZANroDzXHX2pLrILuHYE2xjGCS1QgWfxp6YJjyLF_W4K4seVLEmA6-h2VHYJm0c7NU2x/s1600/IMG_20140330_151025.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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If I haven't bored you too much, visit me again later in the week and I'll show How I organized my sewing station .<br />
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<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12500041147303339117noreply@blogger.com5